Monday Night Out for Tapas

After a late-afternoon session on Monday, I had an outstanding meal of tapas dishes at Rendezvous Central Square in Cambridge.  Tapas is a regular feature on Monday nights at the restaurant, and this week’s menu was the best I have had there (of many fine meals!).  Leaving the campus on a crisp Fall day about sunset, I arrived early (~5:30 PM) and was seated at a table with a great view of the restaurant as it quickly filled up with eager diners.

MIT-23

Rendezvous panorama-2

My dinner consisted of a cocktail (“Nehru” — made with house-infused Saffron Gin), followed by four dishes and a terrific glass of wine:

  • spicy fried chickpeas with pimenton, kale, and preserved lemon
  • caramelized yellow carrots with Moroccan spices and Harissa
  • bruschetta: (1) eggplant/caponata (2) wild mushrooms (3) kale and ricotta
  • Nantucket bay scallops seviche with tomatillo sauce
  • 2011 Joan D’Aguera Garnacha from Monsant region of Spain

I ate most of it with such relish that I forgot to take photos of some of the dishes.  Take my word for it: they were all delicious.

yellow carrot tapa

Nantucket bay scallop seviche

Monsant Garnacha-2

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A Little Bit of Fish…

…is OK in small quantities and not very often.  At least that’s my working hypothesis two and a half years into our mostly-vegan way of eating.  Tonight’s dinner featured 3 or 4 oz. pieces of striped bass for each of us, braised in the way I learned from Tom Colicchio’s book, Think Like a Chef, years ago.  A couple of days ago I bought the filet at Chris’ fish market, so tonight I was ready.  I let Barbara add the salt and pepper to the fish, so she had no way to complain about my seasoning.

I sautéed the fish with a little olive oil in a non-stick skillet, skin side down, long enough to crisp up the skin and cook the darker meat on that side — maybe 3-4 minutes.  After removing the fish to a plate (and wiping out the used oil), I added about one and a quarter cups of orange juice, mixed with 2 tsp. of red wine vinegar, to the pan on medium high heat.  To the juice I added a clove of garlic, cut in half, and a small handful of lemon thyme from the garden.

Then I placed the fish back in the pan — ensuring that the liquid was no higher than half the thickness of the filet.  Turning the heat to moderate, I partially covered the pan so that the fish braised in its own juices with the orange juice mixing in.  As the pan juices evaporated, the orange sauce intensified, and when the liquid was almost all gone, I had a rich glaze on the bass.

striped bass mushrooms closeup-30

And yes, those are mushrooms!  Good observation.  You will remember the Mushroom Consommé in my previous post.  Well, Barbara and I adored it, so I made it again this morning and served some as a first course in porcelain espresso cups.  This time I have a photo to share with you.

mushroom consomme-23

Anyway, there were lots of richly-cooked mushrooms which were available after straining them out for the broth, so it was natural to plop them on top of the fish for even more flavor.  They went very well with the orange sauce (which was not sweet, because there was only the natural sweetness of the juice — balanced with the wine vinegar) — nothing more added.

Vegetable sides were easy.  We had a small cabbage that needed cooking, so I sliced it thinly and added it to a pan with some lightly caramelized onions.  That was sautéed until it had browned a bit, then I added pieces of carrot (mostly for color) which were first poached quickly in the water I was preparing for boiling Yukon Gold potatoes.  When the potatoes were tender, I pressed them in the potato ricer, added olive oil, a small amount of rice milk, salt and pepper — and two secret ingredients — crispy garlic slices, and sautéed bits of leeks.  These two items had been leftover several days earlier from some other preparations, and I was delighted to be able to use them AND to spruce up the mashed potatoes at the same time.

dinner plate-30

Finally, the wine.  Last week I had been to Lower Falls Wine Co. for a brief tasting with the wine maker from Bernard Moreau et Fils in Chassagne Monrachet, and I was quite taken with one of the premier crus.  I had opened the 2011 Morgeot on Friday, and it was still lovely with this meal — the kind of luscious white Burgundy that gives Chardonnay its good name.

Chassagne~Montrachet-55

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Mushrooms Rock!

As a red-wine loving vegan, mushrooms have a special place in my heart because they go so well with so many of the wines I love.  Now that we are deeply into the Fall season and mushrooms are prolific, I am practically in heaven.  Supper tonight is an example.

For the first course, I made a simple Mushroom Consommé, from Viana Laplace’s cookbook, Unplugged Kitchen.  The recipe is astonishingly simple and good, although I embellished it by roasting the mushrooms first, which enriches their flavor.

Unplugged Mushroom Consomme

Over the past few days I had collected cremini, Portobello, shitake, baby shitake and chanterelle mushrooms.  First I cooked the chanterelles in a sauté pan, while in a preheated 450º F. oven, I oven-roasted the others with just olive oil, salt and pepper.  These were supplemented by a handful of Italian dried porcini which were soaked in warm water for a half hour, then drained and chopped.  Combining the chanterelles and the porcini with the roasted mushrooms, I saved about half of all them for my pasta sauce.  The rest went into the soup pot with 6 cups of fresh spring water and the porcini water after they were drained, and were simmered at a lively pace for about an hour.  After straining out the mushrooms, the remaining broth was served in porcelain espresso cups — rich, warm and engaging.

The main course was made by simmering the remaining mushrooms with two whole tomatoes from a can of my best peeled Italian tomatoes, plus sliced garlic and a sprig of rosemary from the garden.  At various times I added a little white wine, some tomato juice and pasta water to get the roasted mushrooms tender enough in the sauce.  After boiling 2/3 of a box [250 g.] of tagliolini al tartufo for a few minutes, I drained the pasta and added it to the simmering mushroom sauce.

The pasta was served with fresh spinach in garlic and olive oil, and oven-roasted endive from a Mark Bittman article online this week, using a Marcella Hazan recipe.  The wine choice worked beautifully.  It was a 2011 Linne Calodo Rising Tides, from their new release that just arrived yesterday.  It is a blend of Grenache (38%), Mourvedre (32%), and Syrah (30%).  Rich Central Coast California fruit, but not overstated — nicely balanced.  When the technology permits a scratch-and-sniff blog, you’ll be able to appreciate the aroma of a wine like this.

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Recipe for almost anything: Olive oil, chopped garlic, hot peppers, salt and pepper….

I just had lunch.  Great lunch, even though it was a reprise of previous meals and wines.  It started when Barbara found a rotting potato in the drawer, so she threw out all the potatoes there.  Among them were a few perfectly good fingerling potatoes which were showing a few sprouts on each.  Since I eat sprouted rice, grains, and other foods, I figured a few potato sprouts would do no harm, so I rescued them from the compost heap, boiled them for 45 minutes, cooled, peeled and sliced them, and finally cooked them as in Potato with Pepperoncino (adding a few chopped Nicoise black olives).

Next, was Cicoria e Aglio.  I bought a head of chicory at the market the other day, and since my wife does not like bitter greens, this was my chance to eat it.  Both dishes will be found in the previous link.

These dishes stood up perfectly to three totally different wines:

  • 2012 Villa Creek White — terrific blend, 50% Grenache Blanc, 50 % Rousanne — unfortunately sold out at the winery, wait until next year
  • 2012 Ciliegiolo — the Ligurian Rosé I raved about here
  • 2011 Gaspare Buscemi Esperienze — a red from Venezia Giulia (mentioned here)

No new photos here (refer to previous posts or below to get some images), but this seems to be as good an all-purpose recipe for delicious food as I can find.

Cicoria e aglio

Cicoria e aglio recipe

Potatoes with Pepperoncini

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Tofu & Vegetables Par Excellence

Last night Barbara made one of her most satisfying dinners, a richly-flavored tofu and vegetables which I think you would enjoy.  I was thrilled to be able to pair with the dish a wine I had just received that afternoon, another bottle of 2011 Vinos Ambiz Malvar Sobremadré.  This is a wine I found so intriguing back in July.

Insta tofu & vegs-14

One interesting aspect to this meal was the use of two packaged items that enhanced the dish a lot.  One was TruRoots Sprouted Rice Trio, a blend of three rices I have used several times before.  The other was new for us: Trader Joe’s Soyaki marinade, which added depth of flavor for the tofu.

2013-11-14 09.05.24 HDR

Cooked rice blend:

rice blend-23

Here is the full recipe:

tofu & vegs recipe

plate and wine-14

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Food Humor from the Internet

Here are a couple of recent favorites.  Enjoy!

Manhattan_FOODIE-Posted

 

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Verde Valley, Part 2 — Page Springs, Jerome and Sedona

One of the prettiest spots we visited in Arizona was Page Springs Winery, not far from Cottonwood and only 15 minutes or so from Sedona.  We got there early on a Friday, before the heaviest traffic arrived at the tasting room and restaurant there.

After tasting and having a bite to eat (very fine grilled cheese and truffle sandwich), we took a walk along the creek below the winery, taking in the speckled sunlight through the trees and watching a heron do his thing.

Page Springs Science! Page Springs vineyard heron in the creek all 4 of us creekside

Aaron & Bree

On Saturday we went up to Jerome, a fascinating place that sits atop Cleopatra Hill at an elevation of 5,200 feet.  With a current population of 444 people, it is a funky combination of artist galleries, tourist shops, wine tasting, motorcycle groups, and a history of a once-booming copper mine town.  The view from up there down to the valley was quite a sight.  We also loved the tasting room at Caduceus, the kaleidoscope and sand painting mobiles store (Nellie Bly), and the House of Joy, featuring Miss Piggy.

sky from Jerome Miss Piggy House of Joy Miss Piggy's hat OPEN mosaic mirror hippies

Nellie Bly

Sunday was our day to visit Sedona, where we had been seven years ago when visiting Aaron in Prescott.  We spent a fine morning in Tlaquepaque, a classy arts and crafts village.  We wandered through the shops and galleries, bought a beautifully-made bowl of segmented wood pieces done by a local artist, and then had an excellent lunch at René Restaurant there.  Two other artistic highlights were a halloween mosaic in the courtyard, done in rose petals, and a Fall harvest decoration on a water fountain.

bowl - Lolo

Gazpacho

Barbara smiles

rose petal Halloween mosaic Fall harvest fountain

Navarro Gallery

Rene Sedona

We got home late Monday night after a fine trip, and Tuesday did our first coking in almost a week.  I made a Beet, Celeriac, and Feta Cheese salad on top of chopped parsley and cilantro.  Barbara did her own version of the Spinach, Potato and Onion soup we enjoyed at Abbie’s Kitchen in Cottonwood.  Since there is no other place to post these two photos, I’m placing them here because I associate the meal with our trip.

beet-celeriac-feta salad

spinach-potato-onion soup

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Verde Valley, Arizona — Family, food and wine visit

Last week we went to Cottonwood, the center of the Verde Valley in central Arizona.  Our son is studying viticulture and winemaking in a program at Yavapai College there, and he is applying those studies in the local wineries and tasting rooms.  We had four delightful days with Aaron and Bree, exploring the beauty and tastes of the region.  This post will give you the highlights and recommended places, should you find yourselves in this part of the country in the future.

We stayed in the Old Town in Cottonwood, at The Tavern Hotel.  It has the well-deserved reputation of being the best place to stay, and we endorse that recommendation heartily. It has 11 rooms, I believe — 10 in the main building and one in a separate cottage directly behind it.  The cottage is perfect if it’s available (we stayed there 2 nights, and in a smaller room the other 2 nights).

The next morning Aaron and Bree took us up the hill to the college to see the vineyard they had planted recently and to explain to us the challenges of growing wine grapes in this region.  It was very impressive and an amazing amount of work.

Yavapai vineyard

inside Yavapai vineyard

We went to tasting rooms in Cottonwood, Clarkdale, Jerome, and near Sedona, and we enjoyed wines in all of them.  Among the best were:

I was particularly impressed by the wide variety and quality of the wines, mostly with Rhone Valley and Italian varietal grapes.  The industry is still very young in this part of the state, so they make wines with some Arizona-grown fruit, but also a lot from Central Coast California and New Mexico.  The people we met are very knowledgeable, passionate and skillful, so I believe the promise is very good for its future.

Four Eight Wineworks

Aaron now works part-time at Four Eight (the name is a reference to Arizona’s becoming the 48th state in 1912) in Clarkdale, and we had great fun watching him in action in this very cool location.  The building was actually the first bank in Arizona, and it was the scene of a famous bank robbery in 1928.  Clarkdale was founded in 1912 as a smelter town for the nearby copper mine in Jerome.  At the time it was one of the most modern mining towns in the world.

Four Eight - pouring a white Four Eight -Aaron serves Four Eight -5 top hats Four Eight - and in this hand Four Eight -Teller cage Four Eight - vault

Verde Valley map

Between tastings we managed to fit in some very good meals in Cottonwood.  Our favorites were The Schoolhouse (Kale & Spinach Salad), Abbie’s Kitchen (custom-made fettucine with wild mushrooms — see photo below), and Thai Palace (Ginger Silver Noodles and Vegetables soup).

Fettucine and mushrooms

Aaron had the Rib Eye Steak.

Ribeye Dinner

The next blog will show you Page Springs, Jerome, and Sedona.

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1 Tomato + 2 Slices of Bread = Panino

Simple and spectacular is “in” for lunch today.  Start with a 1996 cookbook by Viana La Place, Unplugged Kitchen.  Read through it a few days before, and make notes of things you want to try.  Select Tomato and Oregano Panino for today’s lunch.

Unplugged Kitchen-18

Find your latest freshly-made country bread on the counter.  In my case that would be two loaves of Ken Forkish-style breads I baked two days ago: Pain de Campagne (my first attempt of this recipe) and Field Blend #2.5 (my more intensely whole grain version of his Blend #2, with extra whole wheat and rye replacing some of KAF white bread flour).

four breads-53T

Pan fry two slices of bread in Pugliese olive oil (I used one of each bread, to make two separate small panini).  Slice one tomato with flavor (I used Kumato from the market, now that local tomatoes are all gone).  Lay the tomato slices on one piece of toasted bread.  Sprinkle with your best sea salt and a few drops of wine vinegar.  Crush between your fingers and crumble onto the tomato slices the very fragrant and rich Italian or Greek dried oregano.  Top with the other piece of bread.  Serve with a glass of 2012 Bisson Ciliegiolo, a marvelous Ligurian rosé with flavors of wild strawberries and tart cranberry.  Smile at the simplicity and the deliciousness of the experience.

oil and vinegar-56 tomato and bread-59 open panino and wine-47 Best Oregano-00 panino and wine-49 Portofino-54

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Assorted Goodies of the Week

This has been a good week for food and wine.  No spectacular events, just little treasures. I continue to try the various wines in my mixed case from Social Wines, and each one has been delightful.

Tuesday lunch featured farmers market wonders such as heirloom tomatoes and fresh goat cheese, topped with red pepper purée on open-faced sandwiches on my whole grain toast.  A touch of pimenton, along with the oil and vinegar, salt and pepper livened up the tomatoes.

P1020646 open-face closeup heirloom tomatoes closeup

The next highlight was another find in Marcella Cucina, a Celery Root and Olive Tapenade purée.  It was very simple:

  • peel or trim a celery root, then cut in quarters
  • boil celery root until very tender, at least 30 minutes
  • drain and put back in hot pot for a minute to dry out
  • place celery root pieces in food processor, along with 2-3 tablespoons of Kalamata olive paste and a few tablespoons of olive oil
  • salt and pepper to taste
  • process until smooth
  • serve on chips, toast, celery sticks, inner tubes — almost anything

on the window seat with chips

bowl of purée

This paired very well with another wine from Mallorca, a 2010 Anima Negra ÀN/2.  I love it that the grapes are totally new to me:

This is a blend of the most important varieties of the island of Mallorca; callet, mantonegre and fogoneu, which make up 80% of the wine’s composition. 

Finally, today’s lunch was an amalgam of vegetables, some leftover, some freshly made…plus another new wine.  It started with a small, oval French casserole — a copper pot I bought 21 years ago at Dehillerin in Paris.  Sometimes I pick the pot I want to cook in and then decide what to cook.  I had one good sized leek in the refrigerator that I wanted to use before we take off for Arizona soon.  I cut the leek lengthwise in quarters and then crosswise in 3/4″ slices.  Then I sliced up a special shallot from Maine, and sautéed both alliums slowly in olive oil in that pot with the cover on.  After they were almost fully tender, I added 1/4 cup of white wine and cooked that quickly until the alcohol had dissipated, then continued stewing the leek for another 10 minutes.

The next step was to use one large, leftover cooked beet.  This one was the size of a large russet potato when Lynn dug it out of her garden and bestowed it on us, along with a couple of smaller ones.  It was so big that I needed to use a 4-quart pot to cook it and keep it under water.  Anyway, I recently read a cookbook in which the author cut thick slices of beet, coated with bread crumbs and fried it like a cutlet.  So I cut 3/4″ slices, coated with salt, pepper and olive oil, dipped in bread crumbs and sautéed the slices — sort of filets de Beet (as opposed to Boeuf).  Then I added some of the leeks, several pieces of leftover carrots I had braised in olive oil and herbs the night before, one filleted salt-packed Sicilian anchovy dissolved in warm olive oil, and the last special ingredient.

Yesterday, at the last local farmers market of the season, I met Smoky Joe, who grew a wide variety of chile peppers in his garden.  Joe was at the market with neat contraption: an open steel cage mounted on an axle, next to a gas burner, so that he could turn and fire-roast the peppers on the spot.  I bought a bunch of red and green Anaheim chiles, moderately hot, and he roasted and bagged them for me right there.  Yesterday, I rubbed off the roasted skins and seeded the peppers, and I sliced up part of one of the red peppers for lunch today with the beet, leek, carrot dish.  Three small pieces of my Field #2 Blend bread were toasted and used to sop up all the tasty olive oil.

photo

scene

closeup of plate

This richly-flavored dish deserved a robust red wine, and I found one up to the task: a 2008 Domaine du Traginer Collioure from the South of France (by way of Social Wines, of course).  It was absolutely delicious.

Collioure

Collioure-2

I’m looking forward to dinner!

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