Barbara’s Crab cakes and Villa Creek Rhone-style White Wine

Very short and sweet: Barbara made her signature crab cakes tonight — baked instead of fried.  Outstanding!  Paired with a 2013 Villa Creek white wine: 80% Grenache Blanc and 20% Rousanne — Rhône Valley by way of Paso Robles.  Perfect match and a great meal, when accompanied by steamed broccoli and carrots sautéed in olive oil and apple cider.

crab cakes-2 2013 White Villa Creek

Update – 12/14/15

By popular demand, this post has been updated to include the recipe (below).  As the consumer and critic (Barbara is the chef here), I believe the keys to success with this dish are the following:

  • superior premium jumbo lump crab meat (we used a can of Stavis Seafoods wild-caught crab from the Philippines, bought at the Quarterdeck in Maynard).
  • very fine dice for the celery (Barbara is expert at that)
  • top-notch bread for the bread crumbs (made from slices of Jessica’s Tuscan Pane, crusts trimmed off, chopped fine in the food processor, and toasted light brown)

Buon appetito!

Crab Cake Recipe Premium Crabmeat Stavis Seafoods Wild caught Philippines

 

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Culinary Geography and Today’s Lunch

Question: What do Massachusetts, California, Peru, India, Greece, Spain, Costa Rica, Italy, and Germany all have in common?

Answer: They each provided significant contributions to my lunch today, a relatively simple affair of Bruschetta with Vegan Ricotta and Thinly-Sliced Beets and Sweet Onion.

bruschetta

bruschetta plate for lunch

Among the many things I’ve learned from Chad Robertson’s book, Tartine Bread, is a love of pan-roasted, whole-grain bread slices. Since I had made my fresh rye bread two days ago, I thought I’d do something with bruschetta for a late lunch this afternoon. Scanning the refrigerator, I selected several items and then was struck by the culinary geography of the components. As a person who loves to cook and eat, I reveled in the diversity and quality to which we have access. And as a Supply Chain Management guru, I understand what it actually takes to bring these all together.

Here’s a look at the key elements:

Massachusetts. Lovely, rich, naturally-grown, red beets, from Crooked Row Fields in Concord, MA. This is our CSA. I bought the beets recently, steamed a bunch and had one left in the refrigerator, which I sliced thinly on a mandoline.

California. Kite Hill Ricotta made from Artisan Almond Milk by a producer there. This wonderful vegan Ricotta is sold by Whole Foods Markets, and it has opened up a world of dishes I had left behind when I limited or eliminated cheese intake.

Peru. The source at this time of year for sweet onions.

India. This one is a sleeper – Kala Namak, a volcanic rock salt mined in central India. I have found its strong sulfuric flavor does spectacular things to beets, though it is not to every diner’s taste. Ideal for a lunch for one.

Greece. A pickled pepper labeled Golden Greek Peperoncini, from Jeff’s Naturals, at my supermarket. This provided a jolt of accent flavor to a relatively mild dish.

Spain. Source of two of my three sacred ingredients – olive oil and Ibiza sea salt. Spain also provides another savory – almond stuffed green olives – for the plate.

Costa Rica. Fabulous, flavorful organic black peppercorns come from here. I won’t go into the fact that I buy them online from two women in Canada – it gets complicated. This, naturally is the third element of the holy trio: O S & P.

Italy. Almost everything I make relies on something from Italy. Today it was the Taggiasca olive oil I used in the small Cuisinart food processor to make a smooth purée of the ricotta and roasted red peppers. And, naturally, a bottle of red wine – Cardmone, from Reale in Costa d’Amalfi.

Germany. This is a unique contribution: the Fidibus grain mill I use every time I make bread, to mill my own whole-grain organic wheat, rye, and einkorn flours.

Crooked Row Fields Kite Hill Ricotta Kala Namak Greek Peperoncini OLeum Flumen Losada olives - Gordal Taggiasca Costa d'Amalfi

grain mill and rye bread

Fidibus grain mill and my rye bread

Making the dish was pretty simple.

  • Cut two slices of rye bread (with caraway seeds), add olive oil for sauté pan, and pan roast the bread on both sides until toasted and brown.
  • Make the purée with vegan ricotta (or cow’s milk if you prefer) with leftover roasted red pepper and Ligurian olive oil, adding salt and pepper to taste
  • Thinly slice the beet, and then half or less of the sweet onion.  Mandoline works best.
  • Spread the ricotta purée on the toast. Top with sliced sweet onion and beets. Add sea salt and freshly-ground black pepper.  Drizzle with finishing olive oil.
  • Garnish with peperoncini and stuffed olives.
  • Serve with a glass or two of deeply-flavored red wine.
  • Smile
whipped pepper almond ricotta

whipped sweet red pepper almond ricotta

closeup olive IMG_3812

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Rye Bread in My New, Custom Bread Pot

Two and a half years ago, I posted an entry about making Tartine bread in one of Judith Motzkin’s ceramic bread pots.  Since then, my bread-making has become more whole grained, and I’ve developed a real fondness for rye breads.  As I shifted to Ken Forkish-style breads, I’ve found that the ceramic pot was a little too small.  This Fall I visited Judy at her studio in Cambridge, and we discussed my need for a larger, wider pot.

Recently she called me to say it was ready.  I’m happy to say that its maiden voyage was successful today, as one of the two vessels for my rye bread with caraway seeds.  Here are the photos, showing both this pot and a Le Creuset, also just the right size, along with the breads from each one.  I enjoy these recipes because they make two loaves at a time, so I can eat one this week, and freeze the other  for the near future.

breads and pots X 2 bread and larger pot

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Your Basic Chinese-Slovenian Lunch

How’s this for an ingredient-driven meal?

  • packaged non-GMO fried tofu
  • Chinese Flowering Chives
  • one green pepper
  • baby Shiitake mushrooms from MycoTerra
  • 2009 Damijan Ribolla Gialla

This quickly turned into a Chinese-Slovenian-Friulian dish for one hungry blogger.

Chinese-Slovenian lunch

Chinese-Slovenian lunch

Details are below.

This could easily be done in one wok, with multiple steps.  Or in my case with two sauté pans.

  • top, seed, and cut green pepper into 1-inch wide strips
  • in one pan sauté the baby mushrooms, chopped a bit smaller, over high heat
  • when the mushrooms are cooked and a bit crispy, remove from pan and reserve
  • top, seed, and cut green pepper into 1-inch wide strips
  • in the other pan sauté the peppers in olive oil until they begin to be tender (about 10 minutes)
  • peel one small onion, then cut vertically into 1-inch wedges
  • add more olive oil to the pan the mushrooms were in, and sauté onion until golden
  • remove the onions, place in pan with the peppers, and heat over medium-low, covered, until the onions and peppers are very tender
  • sauté the tofu blocks until lightly browned, also about 10 minutes
  • add a small capful of Nama Shoyu sauce or high quality soy sauce to tofu
  • add about 1 tsp of toasted sesame oil to tofu as well, and sauté until it browns
  • raise heat to high and add flowering chives, chopped into about 1-inch lengths
  • cook the chives about 2-3 minutes until fragrant
  • now add chopped scallions
  • finally, combine all the tofu and vegetables, including the reserved mushrooms, into the larger pan, and heat until flavors are well combined and veggies still have texture

Serve the stir-fried tofu and vegetables in a large bowl.  This is a richly-flavored dish which pairs extremely well with an orange wine (a white wine macerated with the grape skins for an extended period).  In this case it was the 2009 Damijan Ribolla Gialla, which is actually made in Friuli, with strong influences from Goriška Brda in Slovenia, a few kilometers away.  The bright gold color of the wine sparkles with flavor and complements the meal.

young Shiitake

young Shiitake from farmers market

IMG_3785

tofu and vegetables in bowl

Damijan Ribolla Gialla

Damijan Ribolla Gialla

flowering chives

flowering chives

While all this was going on, Barbara was packaging up 8.5 quarts of vegetable stock she made early that morning.  When cooled and labeled, they went into the freezer for future uses.  Another vignette to share was the snapshot of our bowl of compost, with the spent vegetables strained out of the broth after simmering for a couple of hours.

compost from veg stock

composting pile from making veg stock

8.5 quarts veggie stcok

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Too Seriously?

Sometimes folks like me are so enthusiastic and effusive about food and wine and our beliefs about what to eat (or not) that some of you may think we take ourselves (and our subject) too seriously.  This post — with the help of our cartoonist friends from the New Yorker and elsewhere — is designed to dispel that notion.

everything-free meal

locally grown salamelier cauliflower esophagus nots Ma's Pie Co. salt substitute wine hints of umami

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More October Delicacies

Mushrooms: I love them.  At the West Acton farmers market all Fall, one of the exciting vendors was Myco Terra Farm, a provider of fresh local gourmet mushrooms.  Early this month I was shopping there, and I saw some mushrooms that were totally new to me: Lion’s Mane and Chicken Mushrooms.  They could not be more different.

Lion's Mane and Chicken muishrooms Lion's Mane muishrooms

Lion’s Mane is delicate, looks like a small, shaggy brain, and needs to be cooked simply to bring out its charming flavor.  Chicken mushrooms are firm, sturdy, and need to ne cooked more slowly for longer times, and indeed, they are reminiscent of breast of chicken.  I thinly sliced the Lion’s Mane and sautéed it with olive oil until lightly browned in a skillet.  Finished with a little lemon juice and Maldon sea salt, it made a delicious appertizer, reminiscent of the flavors and texture of crab meat.

cooked Lion's Mane mushrooms

On the other hand I cut moderately-thick slices of the Chicken Mushrooms and decided to braise them with vegetables and white wine.  A very good choice.

Braised Chicken muishrooms & vegs-2

Here’s my approach to the Chicken Mushroom recipe:

  • 1 leek, cut into 1/4″ to 1/2″ slices
  • 1 small onion, peeled and cut vertically into small wedges
  • 1″ knob of fresh ginger root, trimmed and diced
  • take a sauté pan, add as much olive oil as you’re comfortable with, and sauté the aromatics above over moderate heat until tender and lightly colored
  • 1 carrot, peeled and cut into small pieces
  • broccoli florets, cut into small pieces
  • Chicken Mushrooms, sliced 1/4″-1/3″ thick and then cut into medium sized pieces
  • add the three vegetables above to the pan, along with salt and pepper to taste
  • sauté for a few minutes so that the vegetables have begun to be tender
  • add 1/4 cup or more of a dry white wine, and cook until alcohol has evaporated
  • add 1/2 pint of homemade vegetable stock and simmer until tender
  • add more stock if needed
  • serve in pasta bowls

Each was marvelous, in its own way.

Next on the agenda was some Greek cooking.  When in Portland, OR, I went to Powell’s Book Store, an amazing place.  My only purchase there was a cookbook (naturally), in this case about the foods of the Greek islands.  It kept me happily occupied on the coast-to-coast flight home, and it supplied several very good meals later.  Here is one.

Foods of the Greek Islands braised zucchini and green beans with oregano greens and rice vegetable ricxe soup Odoardi Vini di Calabria

On a different night I made a greens and potato gratin, served with a Jan D’Amore-sourced Rossese di Dolceacqua from Liguria.

Rossese Rossese-2

potato and greens gratin

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October Food & Wine

I’ve pretty much given up trying to keep this blog chronological.  When I get behind, there’s so much material to share that I pull it up as best I can.  This brief post is about some fine dishes during this October.

One of my favorite wines this year is Villa Creek’s 2013 Fiano, a Campania grape that somehow appears to do beautifully in Paso Robles, CA.  The other night I needed a late night snack.  The solution was pan-fried Shishito Peppers with sea salt from Ibiza, some slices of a vegan cheese (Chao), and two glasses of Fiano.  Perfetto!

Evening Snack with Fiano

Another night I decided to use my favorite small French copper pot to braise some small white and red onions from our CSA.  I bought the pot over 20 years ago at Dehillerin in Paris, and I have always loved how well it cooks.  Here is the before and after braise views:

Braising Onions in a French Pot Braised Onions with Lemon and Herbs

For a different dinner, Barbara and I collaborated to make Spinach and Tofu Wontons in Homemade Vegetable Broth, from Martha Rose Shulman in the New York Times.  This is a superb recipe, and we were delighted with the results.

Spinach and Tofu Wontons

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Spring 2015 Travels — Venice

This gallery contains 49 photos.

The original target of these Spring travels was, in fact, Venice, so the last four days were dedicated to exploring that unique city.  I hadn’t been there in 18 years, but then again, not much has changed in a lot … Continue reading

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Spring 2015 Travels — Friuli

This gallery contains 24 photos.

Through my contacts in Cambridge and New York, I was able to arrange visits in Friuli, and to get a taste of their wonderful foods and wine.  One winery, Edi Keber in Cormons, is partnered with my friend Jan, who … Continue reading

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Spring 2015 Travels — Slovenia

This gallery contains 21 photos.

This past Spring (late April, early May) I spent two weeks exploring food and wine in three places:  Slovenia, Friuli, and Venice.  I should not let much more time pass without sharing those delicacies with you now.  Let’s begin in … Continue reading

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