Roasted Dinner

What do you think of when I say “roasted vegetables”?  I’ll bet it’s the usual suspects: eggplant, zucchini, red peppers, onions…all good choices, but a little prosaic at times.  Well, vegans and vegetarians have some marvelous other choices.  Tonight’s dinner —  a collaborative effort with Barbara — was an example.

After placing two sweet potatoes (or garnet yams) in a roasting pan, she put them in an oven preheated to 425° F.  She cut and roasted in the same oven 1-inch thick steaks cut from a fine head of cauliflower.  Separately, she sauteed onions, garlic and a can of Italian tomatoes in olives oil, then added some pitted, coarsely chopped Kalamata olives. Next step was to place the sauce on the reasonably tender steaks and roast that until the flavors concentrate.  Top with chopped chervil or Italian parsley.

In the meantime I did a very simple Roasted Napa Cabbage, after cranking the oven up to 450°.  Here’s what emerged from the oven:

2013-01-17 17.47.13

Properly plated and served with a 2010 Li Veli Salento Negroamaro Rosato:

2013-01-17 17.52.45 2013-01-17 18.21.15 HDR

Excellent, but not quite done.  I had an appetite for salad as well, so I cut up a single Belgian endive, added some shredded lettuce and washed young organic arugula leaves, and then finished it with a vinaigrette (salt, pepper, Spanish sherry vinegar, Puglian olive oil and a few drops of cool water) and topped with shelled organic pistachios and my miracle ingredient of the night — sprouted rye berries.

Where the hell does one get sprouted rye berries?  Answer: one buys organic rye berries, soaks them overnight, drains them and then rinses them twice a day for 2 days, when they sprout.  Add water to the quart jar and let it all sit for two days, producing the fermented liquid, Rejuvelac, for your smoothie each morning.  After you drain the liquid for your drinks, the remaining sprouted, lightly-fermented rye berries are sweet, elusively-flavored and nutritious — and wicked good on your salad, especially with the crunch of pistachios.  If that’s too much trouble, go without the berries, no problem.  Buon apetito!

sprouted rye berries

sprouted rye berries

2013-01-17 18.26.50

Posted in Food, Vegan, Wine | Leave a comment

Ragout Revisited

Thousands of my fans want to know more about the Ragout recipe.  Actually, no one has asked yet, but I wanted to write it down and post it, so I could find it again when I was in the mood.  So here is the recipe for the Ragout and the Brussels Sprouts / Beet appetizer:

Vegetable Ragout and Brussels Sprouts - Beet Appetizer

Posted in Food, Vegan | Leave a comment

Lunch: Grilled Bread, Recycled Ragout, and Canary Island Wine

A few nights ago I made dinner for the first time in a week.  It was one of my favorite ways to cook.  Select very good ingredients; prepare each in a way that highlights its best features; then put the pieces together into an effective whole.  I have no pictures of this event, but here’s a summary:

Primo — Crispy Browned Baby Brussels Sprouts and Roasted Beets with Whole-Grain Mustard lightened with Tofutti Sour Cream

Secondo — Ragout of Eggplant, Artichokes, Mushrooms, Tomatoes and Green Beans, served on Slices of Baked Potato Rounds

Vino — 2011 Laura Aschero Pigato, from Liguria

Pre-roasting or pan searing those ingredients individually paid off handsomely in flavor.  Adding a little thyme, oregano and pimenton to the ragout helped as well.

But that dinner is not the subject of this post.  I give you all that information only as a prelude, to say that’s how I happened to have some leftover ragout in the refrigerator today, which became a simple lunch of discovery.

grilled bread closeup

First, I coarsely chopped the vegetables in the ragout, and then spruced them up with some salted capers which were marinated overnight in olive oil.  Then I grilled some thick slices of a multigrain bread I made recently (whole wheat, semolina flour, einkorn, rye and white bread flour).  Rubbed fresh garlic on the toasted bread.  Added a layer of Cream of Peppers and Eggplant (purchased at Di Palo in NY).  Layered the ragout on top. Served with a wine I found at one of my wine suppliers last week, a 2009 Vid Sur, made in the Canary Islands from Tinto Negramoll grapes, imported by Jose Pastor.  Benissimo.

whole grain loaf

crema-corrected

capers and garlic vignette

4 pieces on plate

Jose Pastor Selections Vid Sur

Posted in Food, Vegan, Wine | Leave a comment

Brooklyn — Delightful, Hip, but without the Dodgers

Last weekend Aaron and I went to New York for a few days, before he went back out West.  The venue was Brooklyn, to visit with Jeremy and friends, to revel in good food and wine, and to explore the formerly-mysterious (to me) Borough of Brooklyn.

I rented a sweet, centrally-located apartment with amazingly good Feng Shui and spent a good bit of time walking around the various neighborhoods, getting a feel for each.  I won’t provide the usual litany of what I ate and drank where (you may need a break from all that), but I will say that Paulie Gee’s in Greenpoint is one of the best pizza places in the country, and that Osteria Il Paiolo in Williamsburg does a very fine Spaghetti Puttanesca for lunch.

You can get some of the flavor of my trip in this photo album, with previews below.

il Paiolo bar corner via Hipsta

toward the end of my pasta

Limoncello Lavazza

late aft Williamsbug street

smart phone bench crop

young men in Bklyn

Paulie Gee's

Posted in Family, Food, Travels, Vegan, Wine | Leave a comment

Family Dinner and our Top Chef

Last night was special.  Aaron has been home a week from Arizona, and he wanted to make dinner for our family (including extended members Ben, Laura and Michael).  Since he is actually the best chef in the family, it was a pleasure to see him in action (with great supporting dishes by Barbara) and to savor the results.

collage

The menu was relatively straightforward:

  • Spanish-style marinated mushrooms (by Barbara from Claudia Roden)

marinated mushrooms

  • pan-roasted brussels sprouts, roasted pear slices, pancetta, and whole grain mustard (by Aaron, after we described the dish from our experience at Cava)

finished sprouts tapa with mustard

  • fettuccine with a sauce of pureed artichoke hearts, roasted butternut squash and red peppers , plus roasted asparagus (all Aaron)

complete plate

  • salad of lettuce, endive, walnuts, sliced honey crisp apples, dried cranberries, and goat cheese, all with an orange vinaigrette

salad fixins citrus salad dressing salad assembly

  • and a delightful new Stuffed Medjool Dates recipe (created by Barbara)

plate of stuffed dates dates closeup

Barbara's Special Stuffed Medjool Dates

I’ll have to dig out the wine bottles to provide that litany.  Here are some more photos, courtesy of Ben’s artistry.

stovetop showing roasted pears draining the pasta saucing the pasta brussels sprouts and pancetta

plating

finishing touch: pepper skin curls

with shaved parmigiano

Posted in Family, Food, Vegan, Wine | 3 Comments

Favorite Ingredients, Small Meals, Part 2

Since New Year’s Eve is a very quiet affair for us, we had a relaxing day, andI had a chance to do my last small meal for the year.  This was a lunch with one new appetizer dish I wanted to try from Food & Wine, plus an avocado/tomato/olive/basil salad, and reheated vegetables from the night before.

3 plates, glass of wine

The new dish I examined as a point of departure was Stuffed Baby Peppers with Yogurt and Floral Honey.  Instead of yogurt, I heated up leftover mashed potatoes in olive oil and spread them on the peppers.  We had an old bottle in the fridge of jalapeno-stuffed green olives, so I sliced those up and used them instead of separate ingredients, and I simply used our local honey to drizzle on.  Cute and tasty dish:

stuffed little peppers

 

The spiciness of the jalapenos suggested a white wine, so I tried the Schloss Gobelsburg  Gruner Veltliner Tradition, which was already open, for the peppers alone.  Nice match!

Gruner Tradition

 

salad plate

 

leftovers closeup

 

With the whole meal, I opened a bottle of Li Veli Rosato, which we loved at the winery in Puglia last May.

luminous Li Veli Rose

Posted in Food, Vegan, Wine | Leave a comment

Snowstorms, Favorite Ingredients, Small Vegan Meals

!! just plowed - cropped

End of December in New England.  Time for snow, power outages, cold weather.  Plus family, friends, and  — of  course — food and wine.  Click on the top photo for the full size view of our driveway after I plowed Sunday morning.

The last few meals at the end of December were not complex affairs.  Sunday’s dinner was driven by a few favorite ingredients and the desire to take advantage of my most effective roasting pan.  As a temporizing measure while I figured out what I would be making, I caramelized a couple of thinly-sliced onions.  (They’ll make anything better, even if I end up doing Corn Flakes.)  They take an hour, but I had time to play.

caramelized onions

In the meantime I made eight small red potatoes in my new favorite Salt Roasted Potato recipe, of which I’ve written a few times already.  These are done at 400° F. which fit nicely with what I intended to do an hour later.

Next, I went for a seven or eight medium cremini mushrooms, trying to duplicate the thin slices from a Motorino pizza this Fall.  I put the thin slice disk in the Cuisinart food processor, placed the slices in a stainless bowl, tossed them with olive oil, salt and pepper, and spread them out on our old Dansk roasting pan.  It turned out easier and better than with a saute pan.

favorite roasting tray

Drain on paper towels and place in a bowl for next steps.

roasted creminis on paper towel

creminis ready for dish

By now the meal was beginning to take form in my head:

  • primo piatto: gnocchi with cremini, caramelized onions, and sauteed zucchini
  • secondo: porcini-dusted tofu with salt roasted potatoes and various vegetables

zucchini in pan

Porcini dust is a matter of having very good, dried Italian porcini and a high-speed spice grinder.  I cut up a block of firm organic tofu, drained and dried it (but did not press under weights this time), rubbed on a little olive oil, then dredged the pieces in a bowl with the porcini dust.  I fried the tofu pieces in olive oil in a nonstick pan and then put them aside.

porcini-dusted tofu

While the pot of water boiled for cooking the gnocchi, I cubed a few boiled beets left over from another meal, added them and the tofu to the roasting tray, and put them back in the hot oven.

roasted tofu and beets

Once the pot was boiling, the gnocchi went in and were done in about three minutes.  They were tossed into a saute pan with the heated onions, mushrooms, and zucchini.  A little pasta water made a bit of a sauce, and we ate that dish first in pasta bowls.  (Sorry, I can’t find the photo for that.)

It was simple to plate up the next dish — simply array some slices potatoes alongside cubes of the tofu, accompanied by the beets, more of the zucchini and some leftover carrot sticks (added here for color and crunch).

roasted tofu and vegs on the plate

Serve with a 1987 Nuits Saint Georges, Les Chaignots, from the cellar.  Just right.

1987 Les Chaignots

Posted in Food, Nature, Vegan, Wine | 1 Comment

Xmas Eve Vegan Tapas Dinner

I felt like starting a new tradition tonight, so I decided to make a bunch of small plates for our dinner.  Partly inspired by the meal at Cava two nights ago, I was able to work almost entirely from ingredients already on hand.  The menu included:

  • Roasted beets with tapenade, feta cheese, Russian mix sprouts, and pistachios
  • Salt Roasted Potatoes
  • Freshly-made hummus on my toasted multigrain bread
  • Organic Dolmas (right from a can — doing my bit to aid economic recovery in Greece)
  • Provencal-style Sauteed Eggplant with Tomato Sauce
  • Grilled Maitake mushrooms

The beets were roasted a few days ago, so mixing up that salad was easy, and I served it up with the hummus for company.

beets hummus pistachios

Meanwhile, I cut up two organic Maitake mushrooms and cooked them with just olive oil, salt and pepper, in the gas grill on a very hot griddle.

Maitake on griddle Maitake closeup

Last month I had made the salt roasted potatoes and fell in love with the simplicity, taste and texture of the dish.  Fortunately, I saved the bed of salt for reuse, so it was easy to prepare.  Salt in pot, wash, dry and oil the potatoes, lay them on the salt, oven at 450, cook an hour.  Let them sit there until ready to eat…even an hour later, they were perfect.

salt-roasted potatoes

oven at 450

Since the oven was plenty hot for awhile, it was an opportunity to roast some garlic.  I was even able to locate the little clay garlic roaster we bought years ago and do this at the same time.  Part of the rationale was for making hummus: Barbara can’t tolerate raw garlic, so roasting it made it flavorful and edible for us both.

garlic roaster

garlic roasted

This meal feels a little like reruns of old TV shows, but I do have my favorites, and this simple eggplant dish is one of them.  You may remember it from our Provencal dinner almost precisely a year ago.  Not complicated, just need good ingredients, good pots, and time.  Saute the eggplant, blot with paper towels when fully cooked.  Chop up best quality Italian plum tomatoes and their juice, saute with garlic, salt and pepper until nice and thick, run through a Mouli or food mill, and spoon on top of the eggplant.  I love the color and flavor intensity of the sauce.

eggplant in saute pan

tomato sauce bubbles

tomato intense

tomato sauce done

eggplant & tomato sauce

The wine choice was easy.  In keeping with the tapas theme, I went with a bottle of Spanish wine I already had open, a 2009 Benaza Mencia.

benaza-mencia

How could I resist a wine whose grapes are (as described by the producer) “mostly Mencia with small dollops of Bastardo and Arauxa”?  It’s also a very good value.  Here is what a reviewer for the San Francisco Examiner had to say:

Benaza Monterrei Mencia, 2009 (Monterrei, Spain): Located on the Portuguese border, Monterrei is the smallest denominción de origen in Galicia. Winemaker and owner Álvero Bueno purchases fruit from local farmers and uses stainless steel for fermentation and a short aging period. Crisp is not a word commonly used for red wines, but it fits here. Floral and spicy with red fruits, this is a delightful red for the fall.

Happy Holidays!

Posted in Food, Vegan, Wine | 1 Comment

A Ligurian Vegetable Soup

Barbara’s turn to cook tonight, but I get to suggest the recipe.  While researching a Panforte recipe (seasonal, yes, but not something we will make), I was studying my book, The Italian Baker, by Carol Field.  In it was an appealing Ligurian vegetable soup, which — when matched with Barbara’s superior dicing skills — made an excellent match.

Ligurian soup recipe - Carol Field

Notice the drippings of olive oil and soup above to authenticate the recipe.  We did ad lib slightly, by adding some reconstituted dried Italian porcini and associated liquid.  Anyway, about an hour after she embarked on the cooking, we had a delicious dinner, with the soup finished by croutons from my semolina bread from last week and some excellent Ligurian olive oil on top.

P1020576

My wine of choice for the dish would have been a Rossesse di Dolceacqua.  However, not currently being in possession of a bottle of this charming red wine, I went deep into my wine stash to uncover a northeastern Italian red with similar soft tannins.  The choice was a 1998 Castello di Buttrio Marburg, a blend of Pignolo and Refosco grapes, nearly as obscure but almost as delectable.  Another Sunday night supper casa mia.

Castello di Buttrio

Best of all, with the holiday bearing down upon us, this soup also provides a range of options for an easy dinner tomorrow night as well.  Plenty of leftovers, which can go with any number of choices:

  • small pasta shapes in vegetable sauce
  • soup with lentils or beans or rice added
  • reinforced soup, with more garlic and tomatoes
  • Ligurian vegetable smoothie in the morning (not really!)

soup leftiovers

On an unrelated note — but equally foodworthy — I can provide a glimpse of an excellent dinner we had last night at a tapas restaurant in Portsmouth, NH.  We had gone first to the Peabody Essex Museum in Salem, MA, for a most interesting Hat Exhibition on Saturday afternoon, followed by dinner in Portsmouth at Cava Tapas and Wine Bar.  We split eight small plates and a few glasses of wine, the details of which I will provide with my TripAdvisor review when published.  Here is a snippet from that meal:

patatas bravas • garlic aioli • fried herbs  / 6

patats bravas Sat night Cava

Posted in Artistic, Food, Travels, Vegan, Wine | 1 Comment

Yellow Squash Risotto with Pistachios and Lemon

Ingredient-driven as always, I went in search of a risotto to make with the lovely organic shelled, roasted and salted pistachios I bought the other day at my favorite health food store.  What I found was a stunning food blog, canelle et vanille, written and photographed by Aran Goyoaga, a Basque chef living in South Florida, who offered her adaptation of a Melissa Clark recipe of a Butternut Squash recipe with Pistachios and Lemon.

I did not have any butternut squash, so I ad-libbed, using a finely julienned yellow squash with many of the same ingredients for the rest of the dish.  Naturally, I used some of our homemade roasted vegetable stock, and added a little diced red onion with the leek, and some chopped fresh ginger with the garlic.  I also use Vialone Nano vs. Arborio.

1-cup of rice

Minced garlic and ginger.

2-diced garlic and ginger

Saute leek and onions.

3-saute leeks and onion

Add rice, squash and rosemary, two minutes after the garlic and ginger:

4-add squash rice and rosemary

Add white wine, then the stock, a little at a time:

6-side-by-side

5-beginning to plump up 7-plumper

Top with chopped pistachios, salt and pepper:

8-with pistachios

Serve with a medium-bodied white wine, in this case, a Schloss Gobelsburg Gruner Veltliner from Austria:

9-Gruner

I would have preferred their Riesling Tradition, but this was already open.  Life is full of compromises.  Except on the U.S. Congress.  Buon appetito.

Posted in Food, Vegan, Wine | Tagged , | Leave a comment