Bombs in Boston; Escape with Thoughts on Food and Wine

The past five days here in the Boston area have been surreal beyond imagination.  As I sit by the TV, watching and waiting for the successful denouement with suspect #2, it feels strange to even think about writing about food and wine.  On the other hand, once we have assured that our loved ones are safe and secure for now, there’s not much else that hasn’t been said in the millions of words in print, on TV, in blogs, or on Twitter.  So here’s what’s on my mind right now.

On Monday afternoon I had a meeting with a senior professor regarding new teaching opportunities.  At the time of the bombing near the finish line of the Boston Marathon, we were sitting in a cafe about 5 miles from Copley Square.  That was fortunate.  The night before we had agreed to move the meeting there, instead of in his office in downtown Boston.

When our meeting was over and we went separate ways, I turned on the radio and heard the awful news.  Next, was the challenge to teach a class that evening.  The graduate students in the class work full-time, but oddly the day is a state holiday, Patriot’s Day, so some had the day off and some didn’t.  None of them were in the marathon, but some spouses and friends were, and in those few hours after the event, there was great confusion and uncertainty.  As we began class at 6:00 PM, it was clear that none of us had our hearts and minds fully engaged on these subjects, so we adjourned after one hour, and the students agreed to run the online simulation exercise from home later in the week.

Two days later I had a different class, this time in the afternoon.  By now the smoke had cleared, the dead and injured had been counted, and our heartbreak for those impacted was very palpable — but we knew nothing about by whom and why this tragedy had occurred.  The class was a bit subdued, but we got through it.  On the way home I stopped at one of the major greengrocers in the area, and bought some great vegetables — my way of sublimating, I guess.  I stumbled home, extraordinarily tired and not terribly hungry.  My wife was out at a meeting that night, so I decided to unwind by cooking just a little.  I had just bought some beautiful red peppers on sale, so I sautéed them in olive oil for a long time, finished them with a bit of red wine vinegar and salt-preserved capers from Puglia, opened a jar of tiny cooked artichokes from Campania, and then uncorked a bottle of Laura Aschero’s 2011 Pigato from Liguria.  That helped me get some needed sleep.

Thursday I was recovering and regrouping at home, and lunch is always one of those rare occasions when I’m at peace with the world.  Here is the lunch plate, all leftovers:

lunch plate

Half an avocado with lemon and salt, steamed asparagus, a few more baby artichokes, and the peppers for vibrant color and flavor.  A slice of my toasted multigrain bread sopped up the olive oil and garlic from the pepper sauté, and a glass of Pigato rounded it all out nicely.

By Friday morning the suspects in the bombing had been identified, more killing and shootings had taken place the night before and in the early hours of the morning, one suspect had been killed and the manhunt was on for the second one.  After getting text messages every couple of hours all night from MIT and my other universities, I had little sleep.  It was a long, tense wait as the drama progressed ever so slowly on Friday.  By early evening I decided to cook a few other special ingredients from Wednesday’s shopping: maitake mushrooms, king trumpet mushrooms, and the first ramps of the season.  It was a fitting first course for Barbara’s fine vegetable and whole wheat pasta dinner that followed.  And it went perfectly with the remaining Pigato.

Maitake Trumpet Ramps

The arrest of the second suspect in the bombing tonight will provide some semblance of closure for a community so traumatized these past five days.  But even as justice is served, there is no way to heal the loss of life and limbs — as well as sense of security — for so many.  It all provides just one more reminder, as we plan and organize and fret over small details, that life is all too short and often unpredictable, so we must cherish our values and pleasures whenever we can.

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A Visit to Fairway Market

Friday I drove back from Long Island, NY, where I gave my 14th annual Wine 101 seminar to the senior class at my alma mater.  On the way home I stopped at a Fairway Market in Pelham, NY, mostly to browse, but also to try some more of their delightful selection of exclusive olive oils.  I’ve already found three of theirs that I liked over the past 2-3 years, but since they are not in New England, I rarely get a chance to sample and buy them, except by online shopping.  (You know that I get no remuneration for recommending places; I only do it because I love to share great sources of food and wine with fellow enthusiasts.)  So far my favorites have been a San Carlos Extremadura Spanish oil (no longer available), one from Puglia, a Sicilian Barbera, and most recently, a Greek Koroneiki, with a nice, buttery finish and no lingering pepper taste.

Here is the olive oil display and the selection of of their bottles to taste.

olive oil display stand

 

olive oil samples-2

 

 

Next stop was the olive bar, a stunning collection with variety and value ($5.99/lb.).  I selected several different ones happily.

olive bar

 

Of course, this is just a small corner of a giant store, with amazing selections of all kinds of foods.  I spent almost an hour wandering around and exploring choices.  Two more things struck me.  One was this package of Kale chips; organic, gluten-free, vegan, and (mirabile dictu), mango-habanero flavored.  I did not try it, but was astonished at the plethora of good-looking items from which to choose.

Mango Habanero Kale chips

 

One other purchase I did make — and which was part of my reason for stopping — was Community Grains whole wheat pasta.  This was mentioned only a few days earlier in a New York Times column, and we wanted to try some.  I bought a box each of the Rigatoni, Fusilli, and Linguine.  Last night I made the Rigatoni with asparagus, leek, shiitakes, garlic, carrots, and scallions, as a pasta dish — green salad on the side — and a Laura Aschero Pigato from Liguria for the wine.  Tonight, Barbara did a vegetable soup including some of their Fusilli.  Both dishes were very good.  I’m not ready to give up white flour completely, but this is good whole wheat when we want it.

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Tartine Bread in a new Bread Pot

I’ve been making Tartine breads for a couple of years now, and the ones I like best contain large amounts of flour I grind myself from different whole grains.  This week I had another success in formulation, while inaugurating a marvelous new clay bread pot.

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The bread was made the usual way, with the following ingredients:

  • 28.5% King Arthur Organic Bread Flour
  • 30%  home ground hard winter whole wheat flour
  • 32.5%  home ground organic durum wheat flour
  • 9%  home ground Einkorn flour

I also raised the water content slightly, to 75% hydration.  Below is the table of my various mixtures over the past 17 attempts.

bread log

The pot is one I bought recently from Judy Motzkin in Cambridge.  She and her pots were recently featured in Yankee magazine.  The design, which was made for her No-Knead Breads, where many of us began baking, is extremely effective.  It is a little smaller and higher than the pots I’ve been using, which causes the bread to be taller and more elegant.  See the comparison below, where my second loaf (half of the dough) was done in my larger, factory-made, old clay pot.  For size, remember the two loaves together  contain a kilo (2.2 lbs.) of flour and 750 grams (roughly 1.5 lbs.) of water.

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Anyway, I do like the pot a lot.  The crumb structure (below) was moist and even, and the bread toasts beautifully.  With all of the durum and Einkorn in it, the flavor is sweet and slightly nutty.  Had a slice today with Tartufata — a brilliant mixture of mushrooms, truffles and olives, imported from Italy.  Accompanied by a couple of glasses of Régnié from Guy Breton, some leftover whole wheat pasta with asparagus and shiitakes, and little cubes of beet in a vinaigrette dressing , I was transported.

cross section Whole Wheat multigrain

 

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Oysters on a Bed of the Snows of March

We will end up with about ten feet of snow this winter.  I don’t deny that it is beginning to try our patience, but I have found one redeeming feature for all of this snow: it makes it easy for a quick and effective bed of ice/snow for a bunch of oysters.  Since I’m still on a campaign to supplement my vegan ways with extra B-12, I found it satisfying to take a break from grading papers (another 41 in this group) and to have oysters for lunch.

Instagram Low-Fi

Two days ago I bought some of my favorites at The Quarterdeck, Ninigrets from Rhode Island, and South Beach Blondes from the Cape or the Vineyard.

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Wine comparisons — a Vermentino from Sardinia and a Verdeca from Puglia.  The Verdeca won, mostly because of the saltiness of the Ninigrets and the match with that flavor.

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Early “Spring” Supper

As the new snow continues to accumulate outside (up to another 14″ this time), I am reminded that “Spring” in New England is a relative term.  One definition that’s a little more predictable is the arrival of asparagus not grown in Peru.

Barbara did the honors last night with a delicious “Spring” supper, two days ahead of the calendar event, and well before the weather cooperates, too.  She started by steaming nice fat asparagus spears, topped with finely chopped hard-boiled egg and lightly sautéed shallot in a simple vinaigrette.

asparagus and chopped egg

Other fixings for the meal included some russet potato trimmings done as home fries:

home fries

along with leftover homemade spinach-feta cheese pita bread toasted in a hot oven:

pita toast

This all came together beautifully with thin slices of her homemade Gravlax, cured with dill and lemon (should have been orange) peel, served with bitter-sweet chunks of endive in vinaigrette.

supper plate

How’s that for Springy?  Not particularly vegan, but still delicious, as well as restorative in B-12.  Wines were selected from two open bottles: a glass of Sardinian Vermentino (2009 Argiolas Costamolino) to complement the salmon, asparagus and egg; and a glass or two of 2011 Carchelo (a Spanish blend of Monastrell, Tempranillo, and Cabernet Sauvignon) from Jumilla, to accompany the potatoes and pita toast.  Even the serving dishes trumpeted the arrival of a more felicitous season.  Buon appetito!

2 wines

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Sunday Lunch: Ming’s Clams and Black Bean Sauce

If you’ve read this blog before, you already know how much I love doing a Sunday lunch with no time pressures from grading papers, preparing a class or doing house chores.  These rare but ideal conditions produce some of my favorite meals.  Today’s was Ming Tsai’s Clams with Fermented Black Bean Sauce.

Clams and Black Bean Sauce full table

Given the oil, salt and spicy content of this dish, my wife had to evacuate the area for a few hours, but the rich flavors more than compensated for the loss of her company.

I had purchased some fermented black beans several years ago in a Chinese market.  Having used a small quantity previously, I stored the balance in a sealed plastic bag, and they were perfectly usable for this dish.  I followed Ming Tsai’s approach and found it to be superb.  This website has an excellent 23-minute video on the topic of black bean sauce, plus the recipes you will need to do the dishes.  Since I am still in the vitamin B-12 restorative phase, I focused on the clam dish, and it was most pleasing —  although not vegan.  My one concession to avoiding some animal protein was to skip the addition of butter, which really isn’t needed.

A good wok is a prerequisite, and the simple all-steel one I bought in San Francisco 30 years ago is well seasoned and performs beautifully.  The relatively long cooking times to open fresh clams and the high oil content of the dish create extremely satisfying caramelization of the garlic-ginger-scallion-black bean mixture:

Clams (not yet) and Black Bean Sauce

While I did not use butter, I did add a half of a jalapeno — diced — which added to the kick-ass punch of the dish.

Clams and Black Bean Sauce

If you have to do animal protein, I submit that this is the way to do it.  We had a small amount of leftover white rice from Chinese takeout last night, so I threw that in at the end to mop up the sauce.  Not a bad idea.

Wines are never a problem.  Instead of chicken soup in Ming’s recipe, I added 1/4 cup of a Sardinian Vermentino, Argiolas Costamolino, which helped steam the clams open.  A half glass of that was OK with the dish, as was some of the Valagarina from northern Italy, but the real winner for wine accompaniment was a Sere from the Monsant region of Spain, 80% Garnacha, 20% Samsó.  It was the perfect complement to the richly caramelized aromatics.

Sere

Sere back label

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Vegan B-12 Therapy

It’s February in New England.  It’s snowing (again).  It’s cold outside. And my body is running seriously low on Vitamin B-12.  How do I know?  Well, there’s this flashing neon sign on the dashboard…actually the warning signals are in my mouth.  Even though I now take twice as many B-12 supplements as before, since becoming a vegan, it’s the only nutrient I sometimes find wanting, since it is not available from plant sources.

So in the past few days I have embarked upon an emergency therapy treatment of my own design.  Fortunately, it involves ingesting some of my favorite foods from non-vegan times, so even if it didn’t work, it would taste good.

A couple of days ago I bought 8 superb oysters, and I ate 5 of them on the half shell, nested in a plate of snow leftover from Blizzard Nemo.  Just a squirt of lemon and a glass of Pinot Gris were all they needed.  Barbara had pan-roasted salmon that night, of which I received a small piece, as well.

More therapy: today’s lunch.  Barbara was off for a few hours, having lunch and a play date with Big D (as opposed to Little D, which I often am).  So with no one around to object to the kitchen smells, the quantities of olive oil and salt, and other pleasures, I made a lunch of broiled fresh sardines and a bowl of linguini and littleneck clams.

Sardines

Sardines and toast

lingine and clams

On the theory that it was already 12:30 (past Noon in the Canadian Maritime Provinces), I had a glass or two of a 2007 Santorini wine, from the Asyrtiko grape, still young and fresh for a 6-year old white wine.

Santorini

Sardines and clams have two of the highest concentrations of B-12 of any foods, at 9 mcg. and 11 mcg. per 100 grams of each.  I figure that’s enough B-12 to keep the engine running well for almost a week.  I didn’t weigh the sardines, but I would estimate my total lunch contained about 9 mcg. of the precious stuff, and complemented  by the wine, they were delicious.  If one of the five clams I bought at the fish market had not been bad, it would have been 10 mcg. in total.  Who could imagine I would worry about micrograms, when I consume so much produce, grains, beans, fruits and nuts?

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Happy Valentine’s Day and Dinner

After 47 years of marriage and 51 previous Valentine’s Days together, you might think the glow is wearing off a little.  Not so!  Only my wife could come up with a card that says it all so well!

Valentine

Our tradition is to give two cards, not just one.  You’ll be happy to know that the second was even more affectionate.

Naturally, I was overwhelmed with emotion, enough to make a simple celebratory dinner.  It was Gnocchi in a Sauce of Roasted Mushrooms, Cauliflower and Tomatoes.  I have no pix and provide no recipe, but here’s the essence of the dish, if you care.

Roast the Vegetables:

  • preheat oven to 400º F.  
  • cut 3/4 lb. of cremini mushrooms into halves or quarters, depending on size
  • put mushrooms on a large bowl, add olive oil, salt and pepper and a little pimenton
  • toss mushrooms with the seasonings and place on a roasting tray, along with rosemary leaves
  • roast in the hot oven, turning once or twice, until well browned
  • take a head of cauliflower, rinse and dry, and cut up into medium sized florets
  • toss florets in olive oil, salt and pepper, and put in a roasting tray
  • if your oven is large enough, roast cauliflower with the mushrooms
  • if not, roast after the mushrooms are done; the cauliflower will take 20-30 minutes
  • place mushrooms and cauliflower in separate bowls when done

Now start the sauce and the gnocchi:

  • in a sauteuse or saute pan, heat 2 Tbsp (or 3 if Barbara is not watching)
  • add chopped celery and 1/2 diced onion
  • heat until starting to brown; add minced garlic clove and 1/2″ slice of ginger, minced
  • when garlic starts to color, and 1/4 cup of white wine and reduce
  • add 3/4 pint of high quality Italian tomatoes and their juice
  • cook until sauce thickens
  • meanwhile boil 6 or more quarts of water; add salt when at rolling boil
  • drop  1/2 lb. potato gnocchi in the boiling water
  • cook for about 3 minutes, until they float to the top
  • remove the gnocchi and add to the sauce
  • heat all together of 3-4 minutes to combine flavors
  • serve in pasta bowls, preferably with floral borders for the occasion
  • add chopped parsley, if desired

Serve with Jan D’Amore’s amazing 2008 Polvanera Aglianico.  Even the bottle I opened three days ago and corked with Vacuvin was stunning.

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Rich, Robust Vegan Dinner

Every once in a while, I hit a home run for dinner.  Tonight was one of those.

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I had an eggplant I wanted to use, which was the centerpiece of the meal.  The technique  of choice for the night was long, slow cooking — both roasting and baking.  We have a variety of cazuelas, of various diameters.  Strangely, after nearly a year of using none of them, they have been our cooking implements for the last three nights running.  The dish is not complicated,  and the results were amazing.

eggplant zucchini tomato rice recipejpg

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Ah, I almost forgot to tell you about the secret ingredient: a few drizzles of Vin Cotto, a balsamic vinegar-like must of grapes which enhances the flavors of eggplant and zucchini.  One of my trade secrets, known now by the cognoscenti who read my blog.   Add a few drizzles atop the dish before baking it for the last 20 minutes.  Buon appetito.

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Pasta ai Funghi al Forno

No class tonight; my turn to cook.  My go-to dishes are often about pasta, and tonight was no exception.  I had a fine organic Maitake mushroom and some leftover creminis in the refrigerator, so that’s where I started my cooking.  The dish took about 45 minutes to take a clear shape in my mind, mostly because of how the mushrooms were cooking.  If I had grilled them outside on the gas grill (a la plancha), they would have become crispy quickly, but since it was getting dark and the temperature had already dropped to 18° F., I took the path of sautéing them in olive oil on the stove.  Maitakes are wonderful, but they can take a long time to cook thoroughly, so it is always a challenge to steer between overdone/dried-out and overdone with liquid/mushy.

The keys tonight were to make leeks and tomatoes as a large part of the sauce, and to let the mushrooms braise with them, followed by baking at high heat to crisp everything up at the end.

Pasta ai Funghi al Forno recipe

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in baking dish

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For a small appetizer, I reheated some baby Brussels sprouts that were roasted to crispy the other night, and served them with a whole grain mustard and sour cream sauce.

The wine choice for tonight was the luscious 2010 Mas de Maha from Villa Creek in Paso Robles, CA.    A blend of Tempranillo, Garnacha and Carignan, it was a beautiful match for the richness of mushrooms, tomatoes and feta cheese.  The best of Italy, Spain and California melded together.  Life is good.

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