New Year, New Meals, and a Corsican Wine

My first day of the new year turned out to be a fine day for revised approaches to favorite dishes. The surprise was that they were anchored by a rosé from Corsica.

For lunch I decided to select a jar of tuna fish from deep storage. I’ve been using tins of Luças Portuguese Ventresca Tuna as my primary source for tuna salads, but since the jar had been in storage for a long time, I figured it was time to bring it out.

The tuna looked very good, so I set about assembling the other elements to make lunch:

  • finely diced red onion
  • chopped plum tomato
  • chickpeas from a jar
  • Castelfranco Radicchio, finely sliced
  • Treviso Radicchio, finely sliced
  • Hondarribi zuri bittersweet Basque vinegar
  • Moroccan olive oil
  • sea salt and pepper
  • chopped dill

The savory nature of this dish seemed to call for a rosé. With a quick trip to the wine cooler, I was able to locate a Corsican rosé, a 2020 Clos San Qulico from Patrimonio, which I found a few monts ago at Winestone, a great boutique wine shop in Brookline.

In keeping with the unorthodox selection of the tuna, I studied the origins of that jar and the chickpeas. The tuna had a legitimate Italian title. “Tonnino”, so I was surprised to find that its origin was Costa Rica. Nevertheless, it was real Ventresca and quite delicious.

The chickpeas were organic, and sourced in Italy. I had previously tried this brand (Jovial) at Whole Foods, and I found them to be as good or better than anything I could make from dried chickpeas.

I tossed all the ingredients together, filled my salad plate, and poured some wine. Life is good!

Dinner time was just a few hours later. After discussing a variety of alternatives (including several, well-worn leftovers), we settled on a baked vegetables and rice dish, inspired by Spanish cooking from the past. The impetus for the dish was a large eggplant which needed to be used, and it was also an opportunity to clean the refrigerator — with several small portions of a plethora of vegetables. Here’s what the final components were:

  • eggplant, cut into 3/4-inch cubes, flavored with olive oil, Greek oregano, Spanish pimenton. salt amd pepper, and roasted in a 400° F. oven
  • thinly-sliced hearts, extracted from 2 fresh globe artichokes, roasted with the eggplant
  • thinly-sliced cabbage, sautéed in a hot skillet with olive oil and garlic
  • 1/2 zucchini, dices and sautéed
  • 4 large cremini mushrooms, sliced and sautéed
  • wax beans, cut in 1″ segments and boiled until crisp-tender
  • homemade dried breadcrumbs
  • shredded Manchego cheese
  • Spanish Calasparra rice, steamed
  • a small chunk of unused plum tomato, diced

These elements were all mixed together in a large bowl and then baked/roasted in a cazuela in a 425° F. oven until the breadcrumbs and cheese were lightly browned and crisp, finishing with a short blast under the broiler. The Corsican wine was every bit as good with this dish, as well.

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Just a Few Photos

Once in a great while, I don’t write about food. Instead, I offer you a few photos which summarize the mood at home as we end the holiday weekend, and play with my Hipstamatic app on the iPhone.

Dried flowers from Small Farm, brighten the winter kitchen
The last two days begin with treacherous freezing rain, which glazes the driveway and walkways
A handful of Fuyu Persimmons from Trader Joe’s brighten the kitchen counters and make a fine breakfast
Italian espresso machine and coffee grinder are essential equipment every morning
Another bouquet of dried flowers provides a backdrop for a Birichino Carignan Nouveau
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In Praise of Homemade Tonnarelli

Now that tonnarelli has been firmly established as one of the most favored shapes in my pasta repertoire, I want to share with you two recent dishes. The first was very simple; pasta made with sautéed julienned vegetables — zucchini, carrot, and parsnip. Accompaniment was a large plate of salad, with mixed greens from Small Farm (including mizuna, mustard greens, and arugula) plus radicchios from Eataly (Castelfranco and Treviso).

The next version was focused on using up leftovers, specifically braised red cabbage (still…) and mini peppers, roasted with balsamic vinegar.

The wine was a real departure from all of the usual suspects. It was a 2021 Birichino Carignan from old vines in Lodi, California. The wine was made in the style of a Beaujolais nouveau, and it was delicious. You can read from the label more about the name the winemakers gave it.

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Biba’s Green Tea Tonnarelli

Once of the most unusual recipes I found this year was Biba Caggiano’s Green Tea Tonnarelli with Shrimp and Candies Cherry Tomatoes. The recipe was from Biba’s Italy, a cookbook of hers I bought 15 years ago but which I started to really appreciate only in the past few months.

Her simple instructions about making tonnarelli were very clear. The revelation was that you should roll the pasta dough considerably thicker than one would do for ravioli or fettuccine. I used only the first three of six settings on my pasta rolling machine, and they came out looking seriously professional.

The candied cherry tomatoes was another unusual method — cooked in a 250° F. oven for 3 hours. And most unusual was the incorporation of green tea powder into the flour mix for the dough. It was fragrant but very subtle. Perhaps the tea was too old or stale, but the taste was very good.

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Using What You’ve Got

One day last week, when I was cooking for myself, I opened the refrigerator and found mostly odds and ends of ingredients, but nothing that suggested a traditional meal. Among the items I needed to use before they went bad were:

  • 1 Asian eggplant
  • 1 medium bunch of Tatsoi
  • a bunch of partially-dried Shiitake mushrooms
  • an abundance of pine nuts
  • a bowl of leftover, braised red cabbage
  • 1 over-ripe plum tomato
  • 1 small block of leftover grilled tofu

So now, my intrepid foodie readers, what would you make of this mélange?

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Well, as it turns out, I had been browsing the internet for Asian eggplant recipes, and I found this one, which looked appealing. Attached is an annotated version, showing the alterations I made.

My trusty wok was up to the task, and I was very happy with the results. It made two portions, and I ate them both.

For the wine choice, I selected a 2013 Nebbiolo, Terrane by Bryan Harrington. It took a bit of time to open up, but then it was delightful. I miss Bryan’s wines, but I’m happy this one survived for me.

 

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Vegetable Garden Soup

In the previous post I mentioned the Romagnolis. Franco and Margaret were my earliest teachers of the joys of Cucina Italiana. One of their lesser-known cookbooks is Zuppa!, and that was the source of a simple and delicious vegetable soup from Piemonte, which I made last week.

I made adjustments — adding and subtracting ingredients, and using a vegan bouillon cube and water instead of beef broth, but it was fundamentally the same dish.

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Ravioli – Cannelloni – Chanukah

Chanukah arrived early this year, which provided a couple of good occasions for making and enjoying fresh pasta. The feature ingredients were fresh-picked spinach from Small Farm and Kite Hill Almond Milk Ricotta from Whole Foods.

The 8th and last night of the holiday was December 5th, so I made Spinach Ravioli.

Spinach, scallion and almond milk ricotta filling
free-form ravioli
in the bowl, with parsley and Pecorino

The previous day I had made my favorite Caponata (a la Romagnolis), with the addition of zucchini (not in the recipe, but I like it!). This caponata made a superb side dish with the ravioli, and the pairing with a white Basque wine from Domaine Ilarria was perfect.

The next day I decided to use the remaining spinach-ricotta filling for some homemade cannelloni. That worked equally well. These two pasta dishes allowed me to perfect the pasta dough recipe: 130 grams of flour, approximately 50% each of Caputo “00” and Gustiamo’s Rimicinata Cuore, plus one extra large whole egg and one egg yolk. It also provided enough leftover dough for a fettuccine lunch the next day!

rolling the filling in the cannelloni shell
ready for the oven
ready for the table
fettuccine with tomato and breadcrumbs

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Miscellaneous November Highlights in Our Kitchen

Just for the record, here are the previously-unpublished best dishes of the month, with and without animal protein.

Vegetarian.

Beet and Goat Cheese Salad
Another Beet Salad – with almonds, olives, greens, pickled Swiss Chard ribs, goat cheese, tobiko, and candied ginger
Grilled Asparagus with Sesame Oil
Braised Leeks with Parmesan Toasted Breadcrumbs
Grilled Manouri Cheese with Eataly’s Olive Bread
Pasta with Mushrooms
Fresh Spinach and Mushroom Risotto
Beaujolais Nouveau!
Ingredients – 1 Roasted Veggies

Ingredients – 2 Leeks
Ingredients – 3 Mixed Rices
Finished Dish: Lentils with Roasted Vegetables and Rice
Deep-fried/Roasted Brussels Sprouts, from Brewer’s Tap and Table, Waltham, MA

Seafood

Pulpo alla Gallega
Closeup
my Grilled Octopus

Octopus Appetizer at Sulmona, Cambridge, MA

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White-Tailed Deer in November

Whether it be woods, parks, or suburbs, most anywhere in Massachusetts, you will see white-tailed deer in November. Opinions vary significantly on whether this is a good thing or not. Pros: they look cute, they are good targets for hunting, and properly-cooked venison is delicious. Cons: they destroy flowering plants in the winter, they harbor ticks and help spread Lyme disease, and they recently have been found to be widely-infected with COVID-19. A recent study found that 40% of those tested in four states had COVID antibodies. https://www.gavi.org/vaccineswork/white-tailed-deer-found-be-huge-reservoir-coronavirus-infection

With that introduction I will show you the view from my driveway one afternoon a few weeks ago.

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Lunch with Friends in Maine

We have close friends who live in Portland, ME. It’s about a 2-hour drive to go there, so we don’t go often. A better solution is often to meet halfway, which is usually Portsmouth, NH. When we decided to get together a couple of weeks ago, I examined the restaurant choices but found nothing exciting for lunch. Instead, I decided to drive 5 minutes further north, across the bridge from NH, and into Kittery, ME. We agreed to meet there for lunch at Robert’s Maine Grill, and we had a perfect seafood meal and plenty of time to visit with our friends before they leave for San Miguel, Mexico, to escape the harsh New England winter.

Here are the food highlights:

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