Two Suppers: one ad hoc, the other, more elaborate

Sometimes when I start cooking, I have no idea where I am going with it. Last night’s supper is the perfect example. It was an “off” night. Each of us was going to a separate event in the evening, and we had no desire to plan and execute one of our normal dinners. The usual selection of good leftovers was not available, so I had to do something for my meal. I knew my wife would take care of her own.

As I often do, I started with ingredients. One at a time I picked them out of the refrigerator, to create a one-dish medley. First was white mushrooms, wiped clean and cut into 4-6 segments each. These were dry-roasted in a cast iron skillet until they gave up their extra moisture. In sequence, I added salt and pepper, then sweet butter, and finally a splash of white wine. When the wine had evaporated I put the mushrooms in a bowl and looked for the next ingredient.

Radicchio di Treviso. Sliced crosswise into 3/4-inch pieces and put on a large salad plate.

Red onion, sliced very thinly with a mandolin, then lightly pickled with red wine vinegar and water.

Peruvian Piquillo Peppers Removed from the package, oil wiped off, seeds scraped, warmed in a pan.

Cooked Cannellini Beans. Removed from the refrigerator, cooked yesterday.

Caper Leaves. Removed from the jar in the refrigerator.

Feta cheese. Taken out, diced small.

Olive oil, Salt and Pepper. Generously applied as I mixed everything (except the radicchio) in a warm skillet, and then plated and tossed with the roasted mushrooms and the bitter “greens”. Since each and every element was something I love to eat, not surprisingly, the whole dish was excellent. Weird, unconventional, but delicious. A small glass of I Clivi Friulano tasted good with it all.

Tonight was different. I had much more time to cook. I won’t bore you with all the details, but the meal featured Sven Fish Cod Cheeks (a real delicacy), a medley of vegetables (zucchini, carrots, and cauliflower), and a mixture of wild rice and paella white rice.

Cod Cheeks. Dusted with flour, salt, and pepper, then sautéed in safflower oil and mushrooms.

Vegetable Medley. Individually poached until just tender. Then sautéed together in olive oil and saffron water.

Rices. Cooked separately until almost done, then combined until tender.

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Homemade Fettuccine with Lobster Meat

My recipe for the pasta dough was 1 large egg, 75 grams of “00” Caputo Double-Zero flour, and 16 grams of Durum flour, freshly-milled from Durum wheat berries.

My fish supplier (Sven Fish) had a special price last week with 1 lb. of beautifully cleaned, cooked, and trimmed lobster meat. All I needed to add was 2/3 of a stick of unsalted butter and one skinned, seeded and filleted plum tomato, all gently warmed. Luscious, served with a glass of Lugana wine from the area near Lake Garda in Northern Italy.

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The Bread Gets Better and Better

Ever since I studied the techniques of The Regular Chef for making Tartine-style sourdough, making bread has become most gratifying. Small tweaks to the method in the last two batches have produced the best results ever.

This time I added an extra 25 grams of fresh-milled rye flour and removed an equal amount of white bread flour. Two other changes: (1) went back up to 22 grams of Kosher salt (from 20 grams), and (2) cut the dough into just two loaves instead of three smaller ones and made them both boules.

Also, I did a small experiment, chilling the dough in the refrigerator for 4 hours before baking the first loaf and retarding the second loaf for 8 hours before baking that one. The Chef’s guidance was that a longer proofing time in the refrigerator contributes to more sour flavor. Both were great, but I think I liked the second loaf better. Here are the details.

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Random Plates

Sometimes I have a few photos that are worth looking at, but I don’t have a story for them, or enough for one blog post. This evening I will post them here as “Random Plates” (even though one of them is a basket, not a plate…).

One can never have too many great vegetable soups.

I would say the same for simple, intensely-flavored pasta dishes with Pecorino cheese.

This was last week’s risotto as Arancini (cut open), embellished with an eggplant-tomato mixture.

Christmas Cactus blossoms that have expired, collected in a basket in our greenhouse prior to composting.

Sourdough toasts, Artichoke spread with micro greens | Barbara?s pickles | Genoa salami

An eclectic lunch completes the set.

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Return to NYC for Two Days of Food Exploration

Having grown up in New York City, I’ve always been comfortable going back there for several days to enjoy the diversity and treasures of the Big Apple. One or two trips a year — just for food, wine, and friends — has been typical for the past 15 years. The pandemic stopped all that, much to my disappointment. Finally, this year I decided to make a short visit. I was able to find a great Airbnb apartment in the Gramercy area, on Park Avenue South. It was a perfect location as a base for the areas I wanted to explore.

Usually, I’d prefer to make the trip for 3 or 4 days, and could enjoy meals with a few close friends. This time I had only two days available (since I wanted to get back home for my grandson’s cello performance in the students’ string ensemble at his music school). Furthermore, my top two dining companions were not available; one was in Italy, and the other was recovering from surgery.

Nonetheless, it was a successful trip. Here are the main highlights:

  • Union Square Greenmarket — excellent farmers’ market
  • Eataly Vino — featuring a huge selection of Italian wines
  • a Negroni at the bar in Gramercy Tavern, one of my favorite haunts
  • an excellent dinner at Via Carota in the Village
  • good lunch at Ci Siamo
  • walked three miles a day

Artisan Products at the Greenmarket

Negroni at Gramercy Tavern

Via Carota

Ci Siamo

Buon Appetito!

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Snow is the Topic, Not Food

In a departure from our usual programming, I thought is would be fun to feature the remarkable snow scenes we have had in the past few weeks. Living in Central Massachusetts for 51 years, we’ve become accustomed to substantial snowstorms in winter. In fact, not that long ago, the annual snowfall in this area used to average about 10 feet. Global warming has whittled that average down quite a bit, but heavy, wet snows have dusted our landscape this month with regularity.

One of those storms — just a week ago — managed to knock out power and internet to more than half of our town for about 24 hours, That means that most of our homes had no heat, water, telephone service (except for those with a wired landline), or internet service. Even cell phones are unusable in some areas (like our house).

Fortunately, one can still take photos (click on each photo in the gallery to see the full picture)…..

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Risotto Wednesday, Lasagna Roll-Ups Thursday

We are blessed with so many ways to make wonderful pasta and rice dishes! Here are just two most recent examples.

Leeks and Scallop Risotto with Saffron

Since I accidentally managed to have two open packages of Carnaroli rice, I decided to make risotto for Wednesday’s dinner. I found an attractive recipe featuring leeks and cream in the book, Risotto, by Judith Barrett and Norma Wasserman. Since I had just been to the fish market that day, I decided to jazz up the dish with a small amount of Martha’s Vineyard bay scallops and some saffron for color and flavor. It worked out very well.

Part of the success (and challenge) was the question of what to use for the broth. We have only a limited amount of vegetable stock in the freezer at the moment, so I ad-libbed by concocting my own broth from various vegetable discards, including the more green portions trimmed from the leeks, tops and fronds from a fennel bulb, celery stalk, and cremini mushrooms. After simmering it all in 8 cups of water for 45 minutes and straining, I was ready to make risotto.

Lasagna Roll-Ups

The next night was my wife’s turn. She cooked a package of lasagna noodles and used them to wrap up sautéed onions, fresh Swiss Chard and Spinach plus Almond Milk Ricotta and Feta cheese. Then she placed the roll-ups in a baking pan, topped them all with Lucini tomato sauce, and layered Provolone cheese to melt over everything. She baked it in a 350 °F. oven for almost an hour. Perfect!

It was awfully hard waiting for the pasta to cool down enough to take a bite without burning my mouth!

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Sourdough Again, with a Slight Adjustment

Now that I seem to have my sourdough starter and dough development technique under control, I decided to try a small variation on my basic Tartine Bread Country Loaf. The normal recipe calls for 900 grams of Bread Flour and 100 grams of freshly-milled Whole Wheat. This time (January 9), I adjusted the flours (weights in grams):

  • Bread Flour – 850
  • Whole Wheat – 100
  • Freshly-milled Rye – 50

It seems like a minor change, but it seemed to enhance the flavor a bit, so I was happy. It made three loaves — 2 boules and 1 batard. The oven was just big enough to do all three together.

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Vegetarian Dinner

We were very much in the mood for vegetables one night, so I explored the refrigerator and came up with an attractive and healthful dinner. No recipes this time, just taking each vegetable and cooking it in a way that highlights its best qualities.

First, we had a small beet salad — sliced beets, beet greens, pistachios, goat cheese, onion confit, plum tomato fillets, white bean purée, and a splash each of olive oil and red wine vinegar.

Next was the big vegetable platter — a real colorful one from Deruta, Italy. It featured steamed asparagus with sautéed shallots, oven-roasted onions, steamed green beans with sautéed sliced almonds, and one Greek dish — zucchini sliced lengthwise and topped with feta cheese, plum tomato slices, and then broiled. It’s a good thing someone invented color photography; this would be nowhere near as exciting in B&W.

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Prosciutto-Wrapped Sole Fillets

We had some uncooked fresh sole fillets from a recent dinner, so I decided to make a simple, quick lunch by wrapping them in prosciutto and sautéing them in a nonstick pan. This time I substituted Swiss Chard for Arugula, with no loss of quality. For a grand total of eight minutes prep and cooking, it was a very high return on investment.

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