On a Roasting Vegetables Kick

My passion du moment is roasting vegetables, and this time of year there are so many good choices.  Last night’s dinner was a medley of some of my favorites:

  • baked russet potato
  • baked sweet potato
  • roasted small onions in their skins (from Chocolate and Zucchini)
  • roasted Provençal carrots (from Patricia Wells)
  • roasted organic Maitake mushrooms
  • roasted sweet red and orange peppers

OK, so I wilted the spinach in a sauté pan; sue me!

Here is my dinner plate; I took the sweet potato, Barbara, the russet, with sour cream and scallions.

dinner plate

The potatoes, the peppers, onions, and mushrooms were oven-roasted at 400º F.  The carrots were pan roasted with olive oil, garlic and Niçoise olives.  The most ingenious technique is the one for the onions, which I picked up from Clotide Dusoulier, who, in turn, learned it from Katie Quinn Davies.  I purposely bought a bag of small onions (but not cippolini for this), and they were perfect.

roasted small onions

carrots Provencal

2014-01-16 18.15.08 HDR

As you know by now, I am more of an adapter than an inventor.  The votes for easiest dish go the the roasted peppers:

  • take one red and one orange pepper
  • cut in half lengthwise
  • remove stem and seeds
  • place cut side down on a roasting pan
  • roast at 400º until soft and the skin starts to pull away
  • place peppers in a plastic bag to steam themselves
  • peel off the skin, slice in strips
  • rehydrate a small handful of salt-preserved capers from Puglia, add to peppers
  • drizzle with olive oil, sprinkle with sea salt
  • enjoy!

I opened a bag of organic baby spinach, and added a small amount of olive oil to the pan from the carrots.  Cover and sauté/steam until just wilted.  Serve.

I feel these vegetables were indicative of the south of France or a good bit of Italy.  So for a wine, I decided to go with a bottle 0f 2012 Grêle, from Château de Roquefort in France. Please read the back label for the remarkable story of this wine.  Oh, yes, it was delicious.  And will never be replicated, because — due to its origins — no one knows the actual blend of grapes that made it.

2014-01-16 18.15.35 HDR

story of Grele 2012

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Celery, Rice, Lentil and Vegan Meatball Soup — and other discoveries

The past six days have been very busy, so no organized time to blog about it.  However, tonight I am able to share with you a new soup and a few other tidbits.

New Soup

Once again I acknowledge my debt to Marcella.  Her Rice and Celery Soup on page 62 of The Classic Italian Cookbook was the inspiration for tonight’s dinner.  Furthermore, her menu suggestions at the end of the recipe mentioned following the soup with a dish of meatballs, and as luck would have it, I had just purchased a new package of a vegan version made from sprouted tofu, which I was eager to try.  Finally, since I had some leftover cooked black lentils and was planning on serving that somehow with rice soon, I decided to put them all together in this soup.

As Adam (at the health food store had predicted) the texture and flavor of the meatballs were astonishingly good, and they were a little bit salty, so I adjusted the salt downward in the rest of the soup accordingly.  The dish was terrific.

celery rice lentil soup recipe

sprouted soybean meatballs

sprouted soybean meatballs pkg

celery rice vegan meatball soup

soup bowl closeup

I was pretty clear on the wine I wanted to serve with it, a Vadiaperti Coda di Volpe from Campania.  As I had hoped, it went very well.

coda di volpe

Other Discoveries

Late last week we went shopping for an engagement gift for the son of our close friends.  Barbara and I don’t go to malls often, so after finding what we wanted at Crate & Barrel, and then wandering around the mall until we were tired, we ate a good launch at Wasabi in the food court.  The dishes were inventive, very good, and quite a good value.  We had several kinds of vegetable sushi dishes and a top-notch miso soup.

The only noteworthy photo was this chocolate bar, which I would title “Necessities from The Natick Mall”:

agave quinoa sesame choc

The last entry here relates to our entertaining over the weekend, and I put it here mostly to remind myself what we did, for future use.  It’s less exciting without pictures, but you may find it interesting anyway.

We had friends from MD and NY staying over for the weekend and had good fun making various meals, beginning with pizza night on Friday.

with June at pizza oven_Jan 2014

Saturday’s dinner was centered around a vegetable soup with mushrooms, and an Eggplant Parmigiana that Barbara baked in the Mario Batali lasagne pan.  I also made a big dish of marinated mushrooms with lemon and parsley for openers.

Then I learned that my very good friend Ron (for 54 years, but we don’t see each other that often nowadays) does not like mushrooms OR eggplant, so I had to come up with some alternatives.  Fortunately, I had already made some Chana Dal for him to try, due to their low glycemic content, so that was his soup.  And for dinner the three guys did the preparation of a fine set of tapas dishes to open the dinner.  Here’s the list:

  • dolmas from a can
  • mixed olives
  • pieces of Sottocenere al Tartufo cheese
  • a can of Galician cockles
  • baby artichoke hearts
  • leftover cippolini onions with orange-balsamic glaze
  • radishes
  • kohlrabi

We had special fun with the kohlrabi.  It turns out that no one had tried it before, but Ron remembered that his mother used to make it with a cream sauce from their Hungarian culinary roots.  I was able to make a dish of it and serve it that way, as well as to have a few slices raw.  Best of all was the display of assorted dishes with the array of colors and flavors sparkling on different size, shape and color plates from the cabinet.

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Supplement: Video Interview with Ravioli Chefs

In last Sunday’s blog, we featured homemade ravioli.  Here is a brief interview with the chefs:

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187 degrees out of phase

Except for breakfast, lunch, and dinner today, Barbara and I ate all our meals together, as we usually do.  Why was that, you ask?  Well, when you and your life partner are 187 degrees out-of-phase with your biorhythms and food preferences, it is sometimes a good idea to do our own thing.  Today was one of those days.

For example, breakfast.  She was up early as usual, had made a batch of her marvelous deviled eggs, ate breakfast, did some housework and quilting, and was ready to walk down the driveway for her Sunday NY Times.  That’s when I got up, showered and shaved,   got dressed, and then drank my fruit smoothie and espressos, as I do every morning.  Pretty normal so far.

By 2 PM, I was hungry for lunch and had a hankering for a sturdy soup.  So I made a Red Lentil soup from my Aleppo cookbook, richly flavored with crushed garlic, sea salt and coriander seeds, and further fortified with some of the sprouted barley I had cooked the night before.  Topped with chopped cilantro and Aleppo pepper, it was very satisfying.  A couple of glasses of Spungola Bellaria Pignoletto from New Year’s Day was a good match.

Barbara reheated the noodles, onions and cabbage dish from a couple of nights earlier for her lunch, about an hour before I ate.

As dinner approached, she announced  she had a desire for a simple meal and would make herself a grilled cheese sandwich — normally something I would eat, except I am trying to limit my dairy intake to keep my intestines happy.  Furthermore, on Friday I had bought a full head of Curly Endive (Chicory) and was eager to cook it.  I love bitter greens, usually eat them with lots of garlic, olive oil, salt and hot pepper, and drink Southern Italian red wine to wash it all down.  Barbara does not like bitter greens, likes very little oil, and salt, and can not tolerate ANY peppers (especially hot ones) or most wines.  This combination of preferences sealed another solo dinner — and it was great.

This time, instead of blanching the cicoria, as I had done previously, I decided to steam it before sautéeing in oil, garlic and hot pepper.  Perfetto!  All I added was some Controne white beans I had made a couple of days earlier, and some chickpeas Barbara made yesterday and did not use in her hummus.  The final touch was in the olive oil.  Even though we have three different oils currently open and in use (Spanish, Ligurian, and Greek), I just knew that this dish need an olive oil from Puglia — and it did!  One final touch was a handful of hand-grated breadcrumbs from the heel of a multigrain bread I made a couple of weeks earlier.  I cooked and ate the whole head of Curly Endive, in my largest pasta bowl.

cicoria, beans and chickpeas

cicoria, beans and chickpeas - close

Even though I had an open bottle of California red wine (2010 Linne Calado Booker Red), I chose to drink a Sicilian Frappato/Nero d’Avola 2011 blend from Lamoresca.  Biodynamic and most delicious, a fine selection.

Lamoresca front label

Lamoresca back label

two open red wines

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Saturday morning cooking with the grandsons

It was 1º F. when we woke up yesterday morning.  Sarah and Nathan were dropping the D boys off at our place at 9 AM, and I had the pleasure of keeping them busy for the next 4-5 hours, until Barbara returned.  Given the temperature, I quickly scrapped the idea of going sledding with them, and instead, decided to make ravioli from scratch.  This would occupy almost 3 hours, provide lunch for us all, and be in my comfort zone for sure.

There are dozens of ways to make ravioli, but I chose to use the method I thought an eight and six year old would enjoy, and one I had used before.  For the dough recipe, I went to my ravioli maven and consultant, Laura Schenone, author of The Lost Ravioli Recipes of Hoboken.  If you enjoy pasta, love Italy, and/or just enjoy a good story,  buy the paperback and read it — one of my favorites.

We started by mixing the dough: 2 cups of flour, 1 egg, a tablespoon of olive oil, and 1/2 tsp. of kosher salt.  Fortunately, there were two cups of flour so each boy could measure one of them and put it in the Cuisinart food processor.  Douglas cracked the egg perfectly and dropped in the mixing bowl, and Dexter did the salt.  As they pulsed the contents to mix the dry ingredients, they each drizzled some tepid water into the top, until it formed a ball on the blade.  We floured the granite counter, dropped the dough on top, and each did some kneading until smooth.  The dough was wrapped in plastic wrap and left to relax on the counter for 40 minutes.

In the meantime, we then went to work on the filling.  After I washed a bunch of Swiss Chard and some baby spinach leaves, the boys carefully stripped off the leaves from the chard ribs, and also removed the stems from the spinach.  Slow, tedious, but necessary work, and time was moving right along.  Amazingly, the boys stayed with it.

I steamed the two greens on the stove top, squeezed out the water, and then placed them in the Cuisinart.  Now for flavorings: leftover caramelized onions, walnut and rosemary from an earlier pasta sauce; a little grated Parmesan cheese, the only non-vegan part; olive oil, salt and pepper; and several gratings of nutmeg by each grandson.  Blended together and finely-chopped, this was pronounced ready as a filling.

chard-spinach filling and mold

Next, was the fun part…rolling the pasta dough.  I pulled our old Atlas Marcato pasta machine out of the drawer and attached it to the end of the counter, where a small step stool enabled the boys to reach the controls.  After my brief lecture on the importance of the thinnest possible sheet of pasta for the ravioli, we got to work, rolling each of four dough balls from initial thick setting (#1) to the finest (#6).  Somewhere near 45 minutes later, we had rolled all the pasta dough into thin sheets, and were ready to fill them.  I pulled out the ravioli frame and mold, plus some hand tools, and made them both ways, with the boys alternating on the filling work, and then dropping the finished raviolis onto the drying rack.

grandsons and their handiwork

raviloi drying

They were very meticulous and engaged in the process.  We took a half hour break while I straightened the kitchen a little, and then I put a pot of water on the stove and cooked the ravioli.  While that was heating up, I chopped three cloves of garlic and some parsley, and sautéed them in olive oil, salt and pepper, for the sauce.  While we were doing the other cooking, I also decided to make a recipe for Braised Cippolini with an Orange Juice-Balsamic Glaze, using a small amount of those onions I had bought the week before.

Braised Cippolini

In the last stage, when reducing the liquid for the sauce, I got distracted and almost burned it — but not quite, it was saved.  Anyway, the three of us sat down for a fine lunch, right on schedule.  Grandpas do have a redeeming feature or two, after all!

ravioli for lunch

five ravioli and cippoline-oil paint

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Snowy Day Soup

It’s a good thing I’ve lived in New England for more than 50 years; it has taught me how to survive on days like this.  By this, I mean: temperatures in the teens (Fahrenheit), wind at 10-20 mph, and steady snow falling, likely to continue for 24-36 hours.

elm and hillside in snow

driveway in snow

One of the important survival skills has to do with — what else?  — food.  A day like this just screams out for a comforting soup.  And boy, do I love making, and eating, soup.  Today’s version has no name, but you can think of it as essentially northern Italian with whatever I can find in the refrigerator and pantry.  (This is not a day to go grocery shopping.)  The ingredients go cheerfully into my new Emile Henry fig-colored dutch oven.  Those ingredients enter the pot in stages, cooking on medium heat in each stage:

  • olive oil, celery, carrot, onion, and leek — diced finely
  • turnip and new potato, 3/4″ cubes
  • tomato sauce, in this case some leftover tomato/onion purée
  • sun-dried tomatoes, medium dice
  • chopped parsley, garlic and sage leaves (still fresh in my garden)
  • a can of Italian cannellini beans
  • salt & peeper
  • 3 1/2 cups of water
  • 1/2 cup of leftover cooked organic brown rice
  • a handful of Maine sea vegetables (Sea Lettuce)
  • a few pinches of Maras pepper

Simmer until the potatoes are tender, and then some.  Let the soup sit for 10-30 minutes.  Serve with a slice of toasted Tuscan pane and one or more glasses of 2010 Li Veli Passamante, one of my favorite Negroamaro wines, from southern Puglia.

soup in the Emile Henri pot

soup in the bowl

soup in the bowl and Li Veli

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New Year’s Day Lunch

2014 — time to celebrate the prettiest label and best white wine of the year.

2010 Spungola Bellaria

Ah, yes, you are absolutely right; the year is only 14 hours old.  Nonetheless, this lovely wine from the Pignoletto grape in Emilia-Romagna was a delight for my first lunch of the year.  It consisted of three slices of my multigrain bread (all that remained of the last loaf), pan-fried in olive oil, and topped with fresh Chanterelles mushrooms, sautéed in the usual manner, i.e.. #1 olive oil, #2 vegetable stock, # 3 white wine, finished with salt, pepper, herbs and parsley.  I saved the last bite for the camera and you, my faithful readers.  Thank you, Matt, at The Wine Bottega in Boston, for the wine recommendation..

mushrooms and bread

mushrooms and bread-3

wine glass and bottle

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India + Alsace = Chana Dal #2

Back in May I discovered a marvelous, healthful legume — Chana Dal — and made a fine meal with it.  Tonight I made it again, with three new twists:

  • served the dal on top of a mixture of brown rice and sprouted barley
  • accompanied the dish with the remainder of an Alsatian wine from our wine event last week — a 1987 Zind Humbrecht Gewürztraminer
  • preceded the meal with an appetizer of Herbed Butternut Squash Chips

Here’s the recipe for the Butternut Squash Chips from Food52, and the photo of mine:

Herbed Buttrnut Squash Chips

butternut squash chips

A word of warning: I found that the chips needed a lot less time in the oven than called for in the recipe.  They were slightly overdone at 1 hour and 45 minutes, so be careful when you make it.  I used fresh Provencal thyme and sage from my garden, plus some Italian dried oregano for the herbs.

The Chana Dal followed the recipe in the video from Mark Bittman and Julie Sahni, and it worked beautifully.  I added more water than called for, so the dish was a little soupy, but that was no problem.  The silky texture of the cooked dal with the tarka added is evident in this closeup of the pot:

Dal closeup

One other addition was some steamed baby spinach, which added rich color contrast and good vegetable flavors.  Here are the servings (Barbara chose to make a moat of the rice and barley).

BHW plate

my plate

The Gewürztraminer was a spicy, rich, unctuous partner to the meal — befitting its stature as a very fine 26-year old wine.  I have a few more in the cellar, and I believe they will last as least as long as I do.

Zind Humbrecht

1987

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Ligurian Vegetable Soup Week

One of my favorite food blogs is Italicious.  She has a nice touch of showing the blog post she did a year ago, and I always find it intriguing.

And so it was that almost exactly a year to the day, tonight we decided to have the same Ligurian vegetable soup we had a year ago.  Same deal: I picked the recipe, and Barbara executed it to perfection.  There were four minor variations: (1) she was too lazy to add the porcini mushrooms and soaking liquid for the extra depth of flavor, (2) we did not bother to make croutons, (3) we used Swiss chard instead of kale, and (4) I was in possession of two superb Ligurian wines to accompany the dish, thanks to my recent association with Social Wines of South Boston.  The net effect was still a very satisfying dinner, supplemented ever so slightly by a small quantity of Spaghetti with Onion Confit with Rosemary and Walnuts Sauce, from a New York Times recipe by Molly O’Neill in 1996.  I provide both recipes for you below for convenience.  The photo of the soup is last year’s version, with peas and croutons, but this year’s was almost as good, and featured Ligurian olive oil, too.

ligurian-soup-recipe-carol-field

Ligurian veg soup photo

Onion Confit with Rosemary and Walnuts

The first wine was the rose, Ciliegiolo, followed by the Bruna Rosso 2012, mostly Garnaccia, with some Rossesse, Cinsault and who knows?  Both were so well suited to the dish that I was transported to Genova, Portofino, and Recco in a brief moment.

Bruna Bansigu label

Portofino-54

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Good Friends, Good Food, and Some Wine

Aaron’s here for a week, and last night we celebrated with some of his very good friends.  Having established a tradition of sharing good food and wine with this group, it was a perfect time to do it again.

Barbara prepared early that day with a “light meal” — a vegan artichoke dip, deviled eggs, and a big bowl of quinoa and orzo salad.  I put together two small bowls of nibbles — a mixture of olives, and one featuring Basque pickled peppers, organic cherry tomatoes, and Tuscan artichoke hearts.  The younger folks arrived in the afternoon, and they brought more good things to eat — salamis, cheeses, a baguette, greens for salad — so we could nosh and talk before, during and after dinner.  To complete the gig, Barbara decided at 5:15 PM that we should make a cake, so using her sterling Executive Chef skills, she put the whole crew to work, making a Sweet Potato Spice Cake (from a recipe in the Thanksgiving issue of Vegetarian Times).

The wine cellar provided an array of new and old wines to enjoy throughout the evening.  I’ll simply let you browse through the pictures below.

the lineup

the crew makes cake

at the dinner table

to my right

four wines

six reds

sumu kaw Mourvedre

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