Salads in the Snow

I used to dislike salads.  In the 1940’s and 50’s, when I was growing up, salad was a pretty dull affair.  Iceberg lettuce was the norm (probably shipped by rail from California to New York), and if you were lucky, it was slathered with Thousand Island or Roquefort  dressing.  Cucumbers didn’t help.  I considered them to be water, in a solid form at room temperature, covered in a tough green wrapping, with no discernible flavor.

Fortunately, things have improved dramatically over the last 50-60 years, and today I get considerable vegan and vegetarian pleasure from great salad combinations.  The wonders of mesclun, a wide variety of young greens, many of them common in Asian cuisine, new choices in cucumbers, radishes, micro greens, multicolors of beets, olives and peppers in almost every food store — even in winter, salads can be fun, delicious, nourishing, and interesting.

Speaking of winter, we are off to a tough start.  Our area here in New England has already received about five FEET of snow in the past two weeks, all of it still on the ground.  

there's a stone wall there under snow cleared driveway, buried pizza oven late aft sun over snow

So tonight’s post is about meals during these snowy days — featuring my current favorites salads, legumes, grains, and wine — in the hours available for cooking and blogging between snowstorms and classes.  Incidentally, we got one of those five feet of snow this Monday, Groundhog Day.  Needless to say, Punxatawney Phil did not have much favorable to say about the remainder of the winter.  At least someone posted this little piece of insight on Facebook to lighten and brighten the day:

climate change and groundhog

Last Saturday I went again to the Farmers Market in Cambridge.  In spite of the weather I was able to come away with a fine loaf of seeded rye bread from BirchTree Bakery in Worcester; carrots, Choggia and Golden Beets, Celeriac, and Watermelon Radishes from Winter Moon Roots; four kinds of mushrooms from Rhode Island Mushroom Co.; and a couple of packages of superb micro greens from Silverbrook Farm in Dartmouth, MA, on the south coast.   These were combined with a bowl of linguine and fresh littleneck clams in a simple garlic, wine and olive oil sauce for my Sunday lunch.  Social Wines supplied the perfect wine to go with it all — 2010 Simčič Todor Belo, a Slovenian white wine made of Ribolla, Friulano, and Pinot Grigio grapes.  It is a full-flavored wine, but with plenty of acidity to go with the richness of the other dishes, all of which included a Portuguese olive oil I’ve been enjoying of late: Cabeço das Nogueiras.

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The last two photos were from lunch a day later.  The salad had diced beets, julienned watermelon radish, multiple micro greens, Italian white beans cooked that morning, diced red onion, fried cubes of Halloumi cheese (Atalanta brand), leftover romaine from the previous night’s salad, and a few wild Spanish mushrooms from a jar.

In addition I had made Celery Root Remoulade the day before, so that was on the salad plate, too.  The most mouth-filling part of that lunch was the Bruschetta, made with the rye bread toasted crisply, with a layer of Taggiasche olive paste on top, and then covered with home-roasted sweet orange and yellow peppers, peeled and marinated with olive oil, Ibiza sea salt, and capers we bought in Ostuni, Puglia, 2 years ago.  The wine was another white, Alter Ego, a Jan D’Amore wine from Occhipinti in Lazio.  What is unique about this lovely wine is that it is made from a red grape, Aleatico, vinified as a white wine.  In fact, I have had all three of their Aleatico wines, including a dry red and a sweet red dessert wine, too.

Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Painted in Waterlogue Painted in Waterlogue Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

After the meal I stopped in our greenhouse next to the living room to take a photo of the flowering cacti, adorned with a small porcelain bunny.  This shot (and two others in this post) was then rendered as a watercolor painting by an iPhone/iPad app I’ve had fun with for a few weeks, Waterlogue.

Painted in Waterlogue

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Miami Beach, Cuba, and then….Fregula Sarda at home

The break in my communications from January 6-14 was for an amazing trip to Cuba.  We went with a group from our synagogue on a cultural/religious mission in support of the remaining Jewish community there.  It was marvelous in many respects.  I’ll just touch on it briefly with some characteristic photos:

IMG_4130 IMG_4131 IMG_4570 DSC_2004 DSC_2002 DSC_2009 DSC_2045 DSC_2129 IMG_4589 IMG_4152 2015-01-12 10.41.43 HDR 2015-01-12 11.58.31 HDR Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset 2015-01-12 13.23.24 2015-01-13 07.21.36 DSC_2435

The people, the culture, the history and architecture, the music and art were all fascinating and enjoyable.  We are very hopeful that President Obama’s initiative to normalize relations with Cuba will be beneficial for our people in both countries.

A fringe benefit of the visit was the discovery of an outstanding pizza place in South Beach, Miami, where we had dinner the night before departing on our charter flight to Havana.  We found the place through TripAdvisor, which is remarkably accurate and up-to-date most of the time.  The name of the restaurant is unusual: Visa-o1 Extraordinary Pizza, and it is!  The name derives from a provision in our immigration laws that permits people with extraordinary skills to come into the U.S., i.e. the Visa-o1.  The creator, and possessor of those skills, is Renato Viola, master pizza chef.

The restaurant is a tiny little place (10 tables) in an unassuming office building in Miami Beach.  There is no sign outside, but a young woman stationed at the entrance will guide you into the place.  We had a superb salad, the best mushroom and cheese pizza I ever ate, and another creation, a Marco pizza, with arugula and stracciatella and parmesan cheese.  A couple of good glasses of Montepulciano d’Abruzzo completed the meal.

Visa O-1 entry-3 Visa O-1 salad

Visa O-1 mushroom pizza Visa O-1 mushroom pizza-2 Visa O-1 happy customer Visa O-1 Marco pizza visa01 pizza

Remaining vegan in Cuba was nearly impossible, so we did the best we could.   When we got home, I was eager to cook again.  Since Barbara had choir practice the first night back, I cooked just for me, and I made a pasta she won’t eat — Sardinian Fregula, also known as Fregole or Fregola.  I found a recipe I liked which I adjusted to include a Yukon Gold potato cut in small dice, about the size of the pasta, and I simmered it for 12 minutes before adding to the dish pictured below from the web:

Fregole recipe Fregola Sarda Pasta with Olives & Tomatoes

It came out remarkably good, and it matched beautifully with a 2013 Fiano from Villa Creek in Paso Robles, CA — a stunningly delicious version of a grape from Campania, of which only 130 cases were made.  I am re-ordering more immediately.

fregole in pan Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset fregole and fork Sarda Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

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Lunch Yesterday, Dinner Tonight

As we prepare to leave for eight days in Cuba starting tomorrow, we are binging a bit on vegetables and salads, which may not be the healthiest things for us to eat there.  You will also notice a reprise of recent dishes we enjoyed.

Yesterday’s lunch featured one of the fresh beet salads of which I have become quite fond.  The key tool is this julienne device, purchased at a cookware store in Portsmouth, NH, several years ago:

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It makes a lovely small julienne of any vegetable with a little substance.  For yesterday’s  lunch, it was applied to one small raw beet and one medium carrot (from Crooked Row Fields), and one watermelon radish from the Cambridge Farmers Market on Saturday.  To that mix I added multiple micro-greens from the Union Square Greenmarket last week, chopped red onion, superb white beans from Italy, Turkish black olives and Sicilian Castelvetranos.  Barely worth mentioning is also a bit of chopped Roma tomato from the top and bottom left by Barbara from a recent sandwich.  This was dressed with a mustardy vinaigrette and served emblazoned in color.

Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset luncheon table

As you can see, it was served with a small portion of leftover Spice-Rubbed Lemon Sole with a Lemon-Parsley sauce (made with olive oil, not butter), and the Rosemary-Ciabatta crostini topped with the Romagnoli’s Caponata.  All was served with one of Alice Feiring’s latest selections, a 2010 Pecorino from Emidio Pepe.

spice-rubbed lemon sole with lemon-parsley sauce Spice-Rubbed sole Rosemary-Ciabatta crostini with Caponata Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

Barbara did last night’s supper.  It was a very good meal of spinach fettuccine with mixed wild mushrooms, baby spinach, and pan-roasted tofu cubes.

Tonight it was my turn again.  I accommodated the request for polenta, preparing some and cooling it in an oiled ceramic dish, and baking it with tomato sauce and sliced mozzarella.  This was accompanied by a plate of hash browned potatoes, and pan-grilled zucchini slices with balsamic vinegar and a salad of wild arugula and chopped endive.  A few green olives and four thin slices of kick-ass pickled beet (lots of vinegar, salt and hot Thai chile peppers) completed the dish.

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There was no debating the wine for this dinner.  My choice was Terra Damia from Calabria (see previous post), already open, and it was superb.  I wish I had more of it.  Hopefully, I will rectify that situation soon.

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Wild Mushrooms, Caponata, Rosemary-Ciabatta

Today was opening day for the Cambridge, MA, Winter Farmers Market.  It was also the first time I have been to this market, in any year.

Last week when I looked over the list of vendors, there were two in particular I wanted to visit: Rhode Island Mushroom Co., and Birch Tree Bread Company.  Even though it is almost an hour’s drive, I am glad I did.  The entire neighborhood surrounding the Community Center was restricted to Resident Only parking, so I parked briefly on a main street around the corner and zipped in and out after searching out what I wanted.

Since we leave on our next trip on Tuesday, I limited my purchases to what I would use in three days (or, in the case of the pasta, would freeze):

  • a handful of each of three wild mushrooms — Chanterelle, Black Trumpets, and Pioppino, plus about six nice, fresh Shiitakes.
  • a loaf of Rosemary-Ciabatta, baked this morning
  • one small watermelon radish and two golden beets
  • two packages of Valicenti Organico pasta — Lemon-Basil Linguine, and Moroccan Braised Carrot and Chickpea Ravioli

I was able to get home early enough to make a marvelous lunch, featuring pan-roasted and then braised wild mushrooms, Ciabatta heated in a 375º F. oven, and both of the Caponata dishes from yesterday’s cooking (and blog).

Chanterelle Black Trumpet Pioppino Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

For the wines I started with a glass of Estate Argyros Assyrtiko (also used to braise the mushrooms).  Then I opened a bottle of Terra Damia from Odoardi, one of my favorite producers among the gems in Jan D’Amore’s portfolio.  It’s a Calabrian blend of Gaglioppo, Nerello Cappuccio, Magliocco, Greco Nero grapes, rich and dark — superbly matched to the wild mushroom blend and the spicy Mario Batali Caponata.  It was stunning how it picked up and mirrored the flavors of cinnamon, hot pepper flakes, currants and cacao from that dish.   Note to myself: add Odoardi to my must-visit places in Italy soon.  And remember to bring back some of their olive oil, too.  Thank you, Jan!

Odoardi

2012 Odoardi Terra Damia

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Caponata Smackdown

One of the Italian dishes I adore is Caponata, a Sicilian eggplant treat with strong overtones of the island’s Arabic influences.  The current population of Italy is 60,254,297 people, so there must be at least 60 million recipes for Caponata.  Virtually all of them have these elements in common:

  • eggplant
  • onions
  • tomatoes
  • wine vinegar
  • sugar

After that, the alternatives are endless.  Over the years I have had many variations of this dish, but there have always been two which were my favorites.  One is from The Meatless Cookbook, by Franco and Margaret Romagnoli; the other is Mario Batali’s from his book, Molto Italiano.  Today I decided it was time to do a side-by-side comparison — sort of a Caponata Smackdown in today’s food vernacular —  and I am delighted to present some of the early findings to you, my loyal readers.

two dishes and books-3

The one by the Romagnolis goes back to the mid-1970s, and it was my first encounter with this delicious way to prepare eggplant.  The distinctive features are, in fact, green — namely the crunch of cooked celery, the saltiness of good capers, and the bite of cracked green olives.  The recipe is simple and relatively quick to make:

Caponata - Romagnolis Romagnolis in pan Caponata Romagnoli's

Mario’s version is much more Moorish in tone, redolent with currants, pine nuts, cinnamon, unsweetened cacao powder, fresh thyme, and hot pepper flakes.  The colors tend more to dark brown and black, and mine was able to feature Italian pine nuts from my recent visit to BuonItalia in New York.

Caponata - Batali Batali in pan Caponata Batali with Italian Pine Nuts Caponata Molto Italiano

Since this was an early afternoon project, I continued the field test by making the last of my grilled radicchio and roasted red and yellow peppers panini — with side orders of each caponata.  They were both very good.

pan-grilled panino with 2 caponate

For the wine, during food preparation and consumption, I seriously considered several options from Sicily, but ultimately decided on a Li Veli Susumaniello from Puglia.

Susumaniello

So….is there a conclusion to all of this?  Americans always like hard ratings and numbers, but my answer is ….. “it depends.”  As with wine, I would make my selection depending on the dishes being served with the Caponata.  Or the wine I wanted.  Absent any other factors, I prefer the Romagnolis’ dish.  But the spicy, exotic flavors of Batali’s version would jazz up a number of meals and would be more appropriate with them.

Furthermore, my experience is that the flavors mellow and deepen over 2-4 days (if I don’t eat it all before then), so I would reserve final judgments until then.

Buon appetito.

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New Year Eclectic

Hope you had a good New Year’s celebration.  For us, it is one of the most understated holidays of all, so we chose to have our grandsons (ages 7 and 9) stay overnight; that way both we and the young people could go to sleep early.

From a food standpoint it was very successful.  Barbara — being the superb executive chef she is — was able to supervise each of the boys with their unique skills to produce spinach and phyllo dough packages worthy of a good Greek caterer, plus an organic butternut squash with walnuts in a puréed soup,  for last night’s dinner.  This morning, the boys were up at 6:15 and the chef was ready at 6:45, so by 8:30 they had made banana pancakes.  Fortunately, I had my smoothie and espresso, so my participation was limited to washing the dishes.  That is, until lunchtime.

I have been thinking of making borsch (or borscht), an Eastern European root vegetable soup featuring beets (which we have in delicious abundance from the last box of vegetables from Elena and Karl at Crooked Row Fields in Concord, MA).  In our Ashkenazi Jewish culinary traditions, our grandmothers from the shtetls in the Ukraine made borscht with lots of beets, a little carrot and onion — all grated by hand, and chicken or beef stock, and served with a scoop (they never heard of “dollops”) of sour cream.  I’ve made it that way before but wanted to try a more country-style Russian version (without the beef or bones in the broth), so I took a shot at this one. I shredded beets and carrots, sliced a Yukon potato and chopped an onion, slivered some cabbage, and added sliced garlic.  Boiled all in stages in salted water.

We tried it puréed and in chunk style.  They both needed more salt, and the verdict was “OK, not great”.

Meanwhile, for the rest of my lunch, I went to the refrigerator for leftovers, with good success:

  • oven-roasted potatoes to make hash browns (with secret ingredients like Pimenton and Desert Dust, and late addition of chopped garlic)
  • seitan cutlets with vegan onion sauce to reheat
  • 1/4 head of cabbage to be pan-roasted
  • a couple of slices of Halloumi cheese, fried (from Cyprus)
  • the remainder of a bottle of 2008 Polvanera Aglianico from Puglia (and Jan D’Amore)

vegetables elements potatoes and cabbage borsch in pot puréed borsch ready to become hash browns garlic to add later Atalanta Halloumi Halloumi, cabbage and seitan Polvanera 2008 Aglianico Processed with VSCOcam with c2 preset

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Morellino di Scansano for Lunch

Last night, I had a hankering for a meaty-style meal (without meat itself, which no longer appeals), so I made seitan cutlets, pan-fried, and finished with a self-styled vegan onion gravy.  We agreed it turned out quite good, somewhat reminiscent in texture and flavor of Veal Marsala.  We were running low on vegetables, so I made what we had: carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, and chickpeas (spiced with coriander, cumin and marjoram) braised in olive oil and water, plus several new potatoes oven-roasted with olive oil, Sicilian rosemary, and sea salt.  I list all of that so that I can tell you about the wine: a 2004 Gini Morellino di Scansano — smooth, charming, and lovely, from the Maremma section of Tuscany.  I must have purchased it some time ago, based on the vintage (and the price: $15).  Made from Sangiovese grapes, it recalls the color and flavor Rainier cherries.  Fortunately, I had plenty of wine left over for lunch today, which is the subject of this post.

The food was a reprise of recent mid-day successes, and it allowed me to use up the last cooked beet, more micro greens, and leftover roasted vegetables.  First, I made a salad with the beet (cut into wedges); greens and endive from last night’s salad fixings; wild arugula leaves; leftover braised carrots, chickpeas and Jerusalem artichokes; chopped organic walnuts; a bit of Olympiana Greek feta cheese; micro watercress and winter purslane; red wine vinegar; and Barbara’s vinaigrette.

Next, was a toasted sandwich — two thin slices of whole grain levain, pan-toasted crisply and filled with roasted radicchio, yellow peppers, and a couple of slices of Pecorino al Tartufo.  All of which went swimmingly with the Morellino di Scansano.

beet-endive-walnuts-microgreens-feta-arugula salad

beet-endive-walnuts-microgreens-feta-arugula salad

radicchio-sweet peppers panino

radicchio-sweet peppers panino

2004 Morellino di Scansano

2004 Morellino di Scansano

red wine in the glass

red wine in the glass

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Simple Supper

Sometimes the simplest suppers are the best.  Yesterday we went across the border into NH, only a 30 minute drive — to visit a couple who run a local pasta-making business: Valicenti Organico Hand Made Pasta.  Dave gave us a full tour of the operation, and Michelle said hello as she came in and out with various delivery tasks.  I had bought their products often at the farmers market during the summer and fall, but I wanted to get the full range of their offering and wanted to see the production in person.

We came home with a bunch of fresh pastas, eight packages of ravioli and three extruded shapes.  Tonight was Barbara’s turn at dinner, and she chose the Lemon Basil Linguine as the main dish, dressed with a simple sauce of Lucini Olive Oil, lemon juice, grated lemon rind, and cut up black Turkish olives.  A little of the reserved water from cooking the pasta bolstered the sauce, and it was terrific.

She also made a salad with lettuce, endive, and some micro greens, dressed in a mustardy vinaigrette.  And I opened a bottle of Channing Daughters Long Island Pinot Grigio, another find from Social Wines and  a perfect match for the occasion.  Simplicity at its finest!

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Lunch Favorites

I had time, motivation and ingredients for a good lunch today.

Time: done with the trip to the dump this morning, including dropping off the very old, used lawn mower.

Motivation: 1. hungry  2. bread was a week old  3. cooked beets needed to be used

Ingredients: Lots of favorites, including whole wheat levain, multiple packages/varieties of micro greens from NYC Greenmarket, the best Halloumi cheese, leftover roasted peppers and radicchio, and a bottle of red wine opened two days ago.

Result: A large bowl of salad, with cubed beets, micro greens, Halloumi cheese, chopped black Turkish olives, and diced Vidalia onion, plus a sandwich of juicy roasted peppers and radicchio with a little feta cheese on pan-sautéed slices of whole grain bread.  Accompanied by a few glasses of a Tuscan wine from a Grenache-Mourvedre blend.

Beet-Micro-greens Salad

Beet-Micro-greens Salad

Roasted Peppers and Radicchio Sandwich on Whole Grain Levain

Roasted Peppers and Radicchio Sandwich on Whole Grain Levain

Tuscan Red Wine - a full liter

Tuscan Red Wine – a full liter

Micro Shiso

Winter Purslane Rainbow Microgreens

salad tossed

salad tossed

Halloumi frying on side one

Halloumi frying on side one

Halloumi frying on side two

Halloumi frying on side two

Halloumi added to salad

Halloumi added to salad

juicy roasted peppers and radicchio

juicy roasted peppers and radicchio

luscious peppers

luscious peppers

sandwich filling

sandwich filling

Melba Levain

Melba Levain

marinating Turkish olives

marinating Turkish olives

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Whole Wheat Levains and Beet Salad with Micro-Greens

Another advantage of vacation time is that I can bake bread again.  While the hands-on time preparing the dough is fairly small, I do need at least a solid day and a half without commitments to attend the various stages of mixing and developing the dough, plus baking time.  I had time this past weekend to do it, and my bread starter (going for at least five years now) was in good shape when I revivified it after it spent three mostly dormant days in the refrigerator during my New York trip.

Each batch of dough makes two good sized loaves, and because I wanted to put currants in some of the bread, I made two batches.  One batch was my favorite whole wheat levain recipe (about 90% whole grain, freshly milled organic flour); the other — with the currants — had a little more King Arthur Bread Flour (~15%) and the rest whole grain.  Following the Ken Forkish method (described in earlier posts), all four loaves came out as pretty and tasty as I had hoped.

The day I was baking, my lunch consisted of some toasted Iggy’s onion ficelle with Barbara’s hummus, Turkish black olives, a beet and micro-greens salad, and a glass of Estate Argyros Assyrtiko wine.

lunch of ficelle, hummus, and beet-micro greens salad

lunch of ficelle, hummus, and beet-micro greens salad

Beet and Micro-Greens Salad

Beet and Micro-Greens Salad

whole wheat levain

whole wheat levain

Levain with currants inside

Levain with currants inside, slightly elongated vs. a boule

whole wheat levain with currants

whole wheat levain with currants

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