Natural Vermont Wines, Good Friends, and Small Plates at a Great Restaurant — an Evening in Providence, RI

Another online notice — this one on Instagram — alerted me a few weeks ago to an event on a Monday night in Providence, RI.  If you don’t know the geography of New England, you might think that another state is some distance away.  But it’s no big deal; in this case, 60 miles, about an hour’s drive.  So I chose to go down there for dinner and stay overnight, since I had a meeting the next day close to Providence with a graduate student advisee, who was making a final presentation to her management on the Capstone project to complete her Master’s degree in Engineering Management.

The evening event featured Deirdre Heekin and her husband, Caleb Barber.  This remarkable couple have a farm in central Vermont, and they make some of the most amazing and unusual natural wines — mostly from Alpine grapes — in an area of New England where the winter temperatures drop to -30º F.   The farm and winery are called la garagista.  Also see here.

They had an excellent restaurant in Woodstock, VT, for 20 years, which they recently closed, so they could concentrate on their other endeavors.  Barbara and I had a 50th anniversary dinner there two years ago, which we enjoyed immensely.  That was also where we learned about Caleb’s thinly-sliced orange and black olive pizzas — but that’s another story.

Dinner and the tasting was at Oberlin, a small but dynamic place in the heart of the city.  The menu features a number of inventive small plates (which I usually adore), and they were a great match for the wines, which included three pre-release labels —  a real treat.

I got a warm greeting from my friends, tasted everything, and reveled in four dishes:

  • Scup Crudo (also named Porgy outside of RI)
  • Grilled Shishito Peppers with tofu and chili
  • House-made Local Grain Sourdough Bread, Roasted Garlic, Olive Oil
  • Chitarra Cacio e Pepe (no photo)

For the wine, I settled on the 2016 Harlots and Ruffians white blend – yet to be released.  Delicious!

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Old New England Seaport, Great New Restaurant, and New Orleans Jazz at its Best

Let me explain the headline: it all began with an email from my favorite jazz band, the New Black Eagle Jazz Band, announcing a concert last Saturday in Newburyport, about 60 miles from our home.

I’ve been an avid fan of the group for at least 35 years, and I try to catch a performance whenever I have the opportunity.  In recent years, the band has had fewer and fewer gigs, so I grabbed this one, and I was delighted when my wife agreed to join me for an afternoon of walking around a charming seaport village, window (and other) shopping, eating dinner, and going to the show.

A little research led me to choose a relatively new restaurant, Brine.  Featuring oysters and crudo, it felt just right for that kind of a day, so I made a reservation for an early table.  We had to ask for a custom side dish for the vegetables, but it worked out beautifully.  I had four Maine oysters and the Tuna crudo (terrific flavors, great presentation).  Barbara chose the Salmon crudo, and we split an heirloom tomato salad with a little avocado.  The chef obliged our vegetables request by poaching some bok choy in butter, and combining it with turnips and onion (creative and delicious).  I actually had a draft beer with the meal and was very happy.

Waterlogue 1.3.1 (72)
Heirloom Tomato Salad

It was a lovely summer evening so we walked around town until it was time for the music.  The Black Eagles played two sets, much to the delight of a packed house, and we drove home two and a half hours later, relaxed and happy.

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Sailboat in the Harbor: a short exploration in photo editing

Last week as I departed Nantucket on the ferry, it was a gray, dreary day.  I spotted a two-masted sailboat in the harbor, so I quickly snapped a photo on my phone, through the water-splatted window of the ferry.  Here was the picture:

Not very inspiring.

However, when I had some time a few days later, I decided to see what I could do to make it more attractive.  The first step was to crop the photo to my main subject, and then to improve the lighting.

Still, I had the feeling that the fundamental beauty of this design was not yet apparent, so I tried some filters to see how they might enhance the view.  One of my favorite tools is an iPhone app named Waterlogue, which provides filters to turn an image into a watercolor painting.  I can’t draw or paint at all, but I can express my artistic sense with this device.  Here’s what I was able to do, using Waterlogue and another app, CameraBag.

Waterlogue 1.3.1 (72)
Preset Style = Natural
Format = 6″ (Medium)
Format Margin = None
Format Border = Straight
Drawing = #2 Pencil
Drawing Weight = Medium
Drawing Detail = Medium
Paint = Natural
Paint Lightness = Auto
Paint Intensity = Normal
Water = Tap Water
Water Edges = Medium
Water Bleed = Average
Brush = Natural Detail
Brush Focus = Everything
Brush Spacing = Narrow
Paper = Watercolor
Paper Texture = Medium
Paper Shading = Light
Options Faces = Enhance Faces

As a Polaroid instant film photo

You can pick the effects you like best.  I prefer the last one.  What’s yours?

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Delicious Vegetable Combo — Step-by-Step

As a vegan/vegetarian, I sometimes think that all I need is high quality fresh vegetables, olive oil, salt and pepper, and a good sauté pan.  Plus bread and wine.

The other night, it was late and I wanted to do something delicious and not too complicated.   Here is the step-by-step story of what came out.

Cut up 1/2 small onion into large dice.  Do the same with one large carrot and one zucchine (remember, this is just for me).  Add Portuguese olive oil (extra virgin always) to a sauté pan and cook until almost tender.

diced onion, carrot, and zucchine

Add fresh peas, chopped Italian parsley, dried oregano, salt and pepper, and chopped garlic.  Continue to sauté until slightly browned.

add peas and herbs

Take some thinly-sliced radicchio, add to the pan, and cook another few minutes.  Then add a few slices of pickled banana peppers (from Portuguese market in this case).   Stir to brown a little more and combine.

In the meantime, since you already had some radicchio in the refrigerator, I will assume there was 1/2 a head of frisée there, too.   Cut that up into 1/2″ wide strips, and sauté it until crispy/tender in a separate pan.  Or you can move the vegetables to a plate and use the original pan, if you wish.  Then add the cooked frisée to serving bowl, atop the other vegetables.

Slice some some homemade whole grain bread, and fry/toast the slices in olive oil in the already-used sauté pan.   Plate the vegetables with the bread, and pick your wine.  In this case I chose an Alvarinho Vinho Verde from the same Portuguese supplier, the Portugalia store in Fall River, MA, a short drive from Providence, RI.

Great, colorful, simple meal, Portuguese theme, but you can adapt the recipe to any style you like, using any vegetables available.

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Pan-Roasted Cod with Cannellini and Vegetables

To complete the weekend’s food adventures, I chose a small piece of fish — 0.3 lbs. of cod fillet.   The meal has its origins in the foods of the Catalan and Basque regions of Spain.  Ever since I first tasted baked bacalao in Barcelona, I have had a new appreciation for the delicacies of cod — both fresh and dried.  Barbara won’t eat it normally, so since she is still vacationing, it was a good time to indulge my preferences.

Preparing the fish is a little tricky, but not that hard.  I simply coat the fillet with Spanish olive oil, dust liberally with sea salt and black pepper, and then add smoked Spanish pimenton on top.  Fortunately, I have a heavy carbon steel skillet which is well-seasoned, so it was easy to sear the top of the fillet until browned (without it sticking), then turn it over, turn the heat down, and cook until flaking and tender, but not overdone.  The last few minutes was assisted by my adding some of my ever-present cannellini beans this weekend, along with their broth, to keep the fish moist and succulent.

The rest of the plate was filled by reheating the Greek vegetables from yesterday, and grilling a piece of my Triticale bread, on which I had spread a roasted peppers and almond milk ricotta purée.  For the wine, I chose the easy (perhaps not optimal) route of the i Clivi Friulano, which I opened at lunch with the risotto.  It was an attractive and satisfying meal.

purée of roasted peppers and almond milk ricotta

cod with vegetables and grilled bread

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Risotto con Fagioli for Lunch

I returned from the island with half a package of dried cannellini beans, so I decided to cook them on Saturday.  It was a sizeable amount, perhaps 300 gm, so I decided to do an experiment.  Most of the time I’ve been using a clay Spanish bean pot for cooking dried beans, on the theory that the Basque region favors these vessels for superior taste and texture.  Since I also have a Staub enameled cast iron cocotte I like very much, I chose to split the beans in half and do a side-by-side comparison with the two pots.

Naturally, I got distracted yesterday, so instead of cooking the beans for about 2 hours, they were actually going for over 3 hours when I remembered about them.  No problem, they were fine.  A taste test surprised me.  The clay pot beans were slightly firmer, and the texture not as smooth as the cast iron batch, and they did not cook as quickly.  So now I have two methods, and will prefer the Staub, I think.

Turn the page to Sunday (today).  I had a LOT of cooked beans.  I wondered if they would make a good risotto, and I was immediately rewarded with a recipe from Judith Barrett’s Risotto book.  So I decided to do Risotto con Fagioli for a full-fledged lunch, accompanied by some leftover Greek baked vegetables and steamed beets as a side dish, all accompanied by a 2013 i Clivi Friulano.

side dish of vegetables

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Greek-Style Baked Vegetables

Returning from the island on Friday, I stopped to re-stock the refrigerator and planned to cook on Saturday night for myself.   Having purchased the usual favorite Mediterranean vegetables, I decided on one of the Greek-style baked vegetable dishes I like so much.  You have seen previous posts of my success with Briami, from the Greek islands.   I was also interested in a recipe from another cookbook for an Ikarian vegetable stew, so I used some of the methods of each technique.  Ingredients were very similar:

  • eggplant
  • zucchini
  • fennel bulb
  • Swiss Chard
  • potatoes
  • tomatoes
  • red and green peppers
  • red onion
  • corn
  • cannellini beans
  • and a few Chanterelles mushrooms
  • high-quality dried Greek oregano and thyme

I did a preliminary sauté first, and then baked the whole dish until tender.  Then I pan-fried Halloumi cheese slices in olive oil, and served it all with grilled Triticale bread and some Brunello di Montalcino wine.

fresh-cut vegetables after brief sauté

after baking

grilled bread rubbed with garlic

Dinner Plate

Halloumi side one

Halloumi side two

vegetables and cheese

Brunello

 

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Overnight White Bread

Two weeks ago I decided to make bread again, but I was too lazy for my usual routine of making a levain, proofing the loaves overnight in the refrigerator, and baking the next day.  That’s normally a nearly two-day production.  So I tried another of Ken Forkish’s recipe: Overnight White Bread, and it turned out great!

If you want details, buy his book, Flour, Water, Salt and Yeast.  The essence of the recipe is to autolyse the flour at 7:30 PM, let the dough rise all night in a tub on the counter, and form the loaves and bake it 12 to 14 hours later.  Instead of all white bread flour, I used 90% of that and 10% of home-milled Triticale, which made a delicious loaf.

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Zuppa di Ceci in the Style of Campania or Puglia

Last night I was eager to use more of the organic Italian chickpeas which I had cooked the day before.  I also needed to use some Yukon potatoes and the organic collard greens leftover from the day before.  The result was a Southern Italian-style soup of great flavor, texture, and healthy qualities.

Cut into small or medium dice, as you prefer:

  • 1/2 red onion
  • 1 leek
  • 2 cloves of garlic
  • 1 stick of celery
  • 1 medium potato
  • 1 zucchine
  • a few handfuls of fresh peas
  • 1-2 cups of cooked chickpeas
  • 1-2 cups of cooked organic collard greens (Swiss Chard and spinach are alternatives, and so are Italian bitter greens, like escarole and chicory)

Sauté the first three items, then add the next three after the first ingredients are tender.  Add the chickpeas and greens.  Season with wild Calabrian fennel seed, dried Italian oregano (not Mexican, please), salt & pepper, and a sprinkle of hot Calabrian red pepper flakes.  If you cooked your own dried chickpeas, then use the broth from the legumes for the soup.  If not, add water or vegetable stock.  Cook for 30 minutes to an hour, until the potatoes are cooked through and the collards are smooth and silky.

Serve with a crusty loaf of bread and a medium-bodied white wine, like Rkatsiteli from Georgia or Falanghina from Campania.  I actually had made an Overnight White Bread (Ken Forkish bread recipe) last weekend, and topped the broiled slices with a Bistro Cooking Provençal anchoïade (anchovy, garlic, parsley and red wine vinegar), which complemented the soup beautifully.

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East Meets West, in the Pasta Bowl

If you’ve been reading my blog for awhile, you will know that I have great admiration for the culture, food and wine of countries I love.  And my cooking tends to respect those traditions pretty closely.  On the other hand, you may also discern that my love of diversity and natural playfulness sometimes cause me to blend radically disparate cultures, to see what comes out.  Such was the case tonight.

I began with a desire to use a package of Bunapi Mushrooms I bought last week at Russo’s.  These are Japanese White Beech Mushrooms, organic and subtle, and I wanted to see where I could go with them.  I had recently explored some Bow Tie pasta recipes (Farfalle), and I thought they would go well.  Then, a funny thing happened on the way to the stove and table.  As I often do, I went to the internet for some ideas or a refresher on how to prepare an unusual item.  I explored a few recipes — nothing extraordinary — and then I looked at Pinterest, when the search page showed an attractive photo.  Guess what?  It was a picture from my own blog, posted in August, 2011, Vegan Delights: Grilled Polenta and Bunapi Mushrooms!  And it looked good!

I was in no mood to make polenta, but I figured it would also work with pasta, so I forged ahead, using the basic ideas and adapting to what I had available:

  • salt one zucchine, cut into julienne strips, let sit for 30 minutes and then wipe dry
  • dice one shallot and sauté in olive oil, adding the zucchine and cooking until tender
  • sauté the Bunapi as described
  • cook the farfalle (250 gm.) in a big pot of boiling salted water

Now for the big cross-cultural event: I flash-fried some flowering Chinese chives, also from Russo’s late last week, and added them to the pasta as I mixed it all together.   These are garlic chives with small, edible yellow flower buds on the tips, and they worked beautifully with some rock shrimp and farro I made last week.

Now all I needed to do was take the eggplant slices I had baked with tomato last night, add a bit of Scamorza cheese and olive oil, and broil, to serve with the pasta.  Here’s how it looked:

I actually had two different wines with the dish.  The first was Rkatsiteli, a white wine from the Republic of Georgia.  It was delicious last night with soup –more about that later — and it went well with the pasta.  When I finished that bottle, I opened a Costa D’Amalfi Rosato from Le Vigne di Raito, which I brought back from there during our visit in April.  It was excellent, particularly with the eggplant.

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