Antipasto for Lunch, Herbed Artichoke Galette for Dinner, and Black Peppercorns for Everything

Antipasto

I had defrosted the second loaf from my last batch of 40% Whole Wheat Bread, so it was time for Bruschetta at lunch.  One recipe that caught my eye recently was Bruschetta Bianca from the Union Square Cafe cookbook.  It featured white truffle oil, good balsamic vinegar, and thick, grilled bread with some Parmesan cheese shavings on top.  I had the ingredients, except for the Parmesan, so I substituted shaved Sardinian Pecorino instead.

That part was easy, but — as always when I start cooking — complications arose.  One was my need to attend to two small cooked beets that were about to expire.  In fact, the weird white spots growing on their surfaces made me worry that they already had.  I washed and wiped them off vigorously, and I smelled them carefully.  There were no further indications of decay, so I proceeded.  Since the grill was heating up for the bruschetta, I sliced the beets vertically, added olive oil and Alaea Sea Salt from Hawaii, and seared them on both sides.  The next step turned out to be a huge success.  I topped each beet slice with the whipped feta cheese I’ve been putting on everything I can, plus some toasted chopped walnuts, leftover from the recent fresh pasta dish.  Magnifique!

The other addition was some grilled zucchini, since I needed to use an older one, as Barbara was putting three new ones in the refrigerator this afternoon.  Three lengthwise slices gave me the right thickness for grilling, and olive oil and balsamic vinegar provided the flavor enhancers.  Antipasto for one, just to my specifications.

Jan D’Amore’s Masseria del Pino Sicilian Nerello Mascalese was just right for the meal.

Artichoke Galette

Three months earlier Barbara had made this Galette for our Public Library’s cookbook club get-together.  She did it again this week, and it was even better.  Here is the finished product, and the recipe from Fine Cooking.

Black Peppercorns

One more thing I have to share with you.  We are back in stock with Black Peppercorns, and these continue to be the very finest we have ever used.

Several years ago my brother and his partner were in Costa Rica for fun and education, and they brought me back a small package of organic peppercorns from Orchard del Sol.  They were the most fragrant and balanced peppers we ever encountered.  Carole and Joanne, the ladies who run this little business live in Saskatchewan, Canada, and they work with growers in Costa Rica.  It’s a big contribution to sustainability, a tribute to the global economy, and it has made us happy and healthy for years.

The only challenge has been re-ordering.  For those of us spoiled by the high touch, constant-contact online firms like Amazon, La Tienda, and the like, we are used to easy, quick, well-informed, package-tracked transactions, 24 x 7.  Though their products are peerless, the ordering process was not. Now they have a new website, and I think that will work much better.

For those interested, here is the package:

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Grilled Basque Ham and Cheese, Capri-Style Chocolate Walnut Torte

My thing is lunches, Barbara is the reigning expert on desserts.

Two recent examples: I made a grilled cheese and ham sandwich lunch the other day.  It was Basque-inspired, using a sheep milk cheese from the Basque region in France, and some prosciutto which was probably Italian, but could easily have been Basque as well.  For taste and color I added some chopped plum tomato and Basque guindilla peppers that were outstanding.

That night Barbara did her thing beautifully.  I have been looking for ways to enjoy our recent wealth of organic walnuts, so I researched walnut tortes of various kinds.  Several looked attractive, but when I consulted with her, the verdict was clear — it would be a chocolate walnut torte, popular traditionally from Capri, the isle off the coast of Naples.  The walnuts and I were very happy with the results.

Here is the recipe (vegan) from Cookstr:

Chocolate and Walnut Torte from Capri | Cookstr

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Ikarian Baked Vegetables, Improved

We’ve been reading and cooking with the book, Blue Zones Kitchen.  It’s interesting reading, contains some good recipes, and it fits well with all we have learned about healthy food and lifestyles in the past 10 years and more.  We are particularly attracted to the sections on Sardinia, Ikaria, and surprisingly, Okinawa.

Recently, I made a simple baked vegetable dish, Ikarian Winter Ratatouille, for dinner.

The dish was disappointing in three ways.  First, the timing was way off.  I think it was low by a factor of two, and the temperature needed to be higher as well.  Second, it was pretty bland, not much flavor.  Finally, the photo does not match the recipe well; different ingredients, vegetables cut in different sizes, etc.

The next day, however, I made a much-improved version with the leftovers.  I preheated a heavy, hammered steel pan, and then added a little olive oil, the leftover baked vegetables, some cubes of feta cheese, dried homemade whole wheat breadcrumbs, and chopped Kalamata olives.  With the broiler on high (and watched carefully to prevent burning), it became a crispy, flavorful rendition.  I enjoyed it with a glass of 2018 Corte Gardoni Bardolino Le Fontane.

 

 

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Random Post During Quarantine

Sometimes I worry I’m about to go past my expiration date.  That thought occurred to me a few days ago, when Barbara noticed a very large bird in a tree alongside our driveway.  “Looks like a raptor of some sort,” she said.

I decide to walk outside and investigate.

As I passed below him, I noticed another bird in the air, and then the one in the tree took off, too.  It suddenly was very clear that they were vultures.

That’s when I decided to check my expiration date.  Good news: I have not exceed the “best if used by” date yet.

 

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New Pasta Dish, but No Food Photos

Sometimes I get so absorbed in whatever I am cooking that I forget (or don’t have time) to take any photos.  This was pretty much the case last night at dinner.

Things started simply enough.  I was inspired by a delightfully spare suggestion from Alice Waters’ cookbook, Chez Panisse Vegetables.  Here was the entry:

“I can do that,” I thought.  We have zucchini, I just bought a case (24 1-lb. bags) of organic walnuts from California, and we now have some Genovese pesto from Gustiamo.  Seems like a win all around, but it will take time to make the fresh pasta.  No worries.  I have time.  And flour, appropriate pasta flour.  Let’s go!

Of course, when I have time, I tend to think about options — to make the best dish I can, with what’s available.  That’s when things get a little more complicated.  I’m always conscious of what’s in the refrigerator that may need to be used before it spoils.  A small graffiti eggplant was in the category, so I decided to consider that.  Also, since walnuts don’t appear in too many recipes with eggplant, I decided to do more research in my cookbook collection.  Viana LaPlace’s book, Verdura, popped up with a recipe that included both — Fresh Pasta with Eggplant, Tomato, Ricotta and Walnuts.  That intrigued me, but alas, we had no Ricotta.  Hmmm, what to do?

How about making a dish that combines ideas from each of these?  Instead of ricotta, I had a small bowl of whipped feta cheese I made a few days earlier.  That would go nicely.  And we had only one small plum tomato, and I liked the idea of the julienned zucchini, so I made Fresh Pasta with Eggplant, Zucchini, Tomato, Whipped Feta Cheese, and Walnuts.

My fresh pasta was made from 100 g ’00’ flour plus 100 g Maiorca flour, plus 2 extra large eggs, a little salt, and a glug or two of Sicilian olive oil.  The rest of the steps:

  • julienne the zucchini on a mandoline
  • dice the eggplant
  • salt the vegetables for 1/2 hour, then wipe dry (multiple paper towels), and sauté separately, then keep warm in a 200˚ F. oven
  • peel and finely dice the plum tomato
  • toast the walnuts in a cast iron skillet, cool completely, then chop coarsely
  • grate the Parmesan cheese and take the whipped feta cheese out of the refrigerator
  • cook the pasta, drain, and save 2 cups of pasta water
  • place the feta cheese at the bottom of a warmed serving bowl, add some of the pasta water, then add the cooked pasta, zucchini, eggplant, chopped tomato, and the walnuts
  • mix everything together well and serve in big pasta bowls
  • pour a glass of Masseria del Pino Nerello Mascalese
  • ENJOY

The only food photo is the uncooked tagliatelle, since I used 2/3 of the recipe for the meal.

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Bread. Pizza. Paella.

All the basic food groups.  Making and eating these provide some of our very best comfort foods.  And they’re pretty healthy, too.  Let me share these dishes from the past few days.

Bread

I’ve been making two different breads with more regularity now.  One is the Field Blend #2, a hybrid levain.  The other — and most recent — is an Overnight 40% Whole Wheat, without levain.  The process begins at about 1 PM on Saturday, mixing and autolysing the flours — in this case 60% King Arthur White Bread Flour, 38% Turkey Red Whole Wheat from Breadtopia, and 2% home-milled Rye Flour made from Sprouted Grains Rye Berries.  The total is 1,000 grams of flour, for two loaves.

Later in the day I add 23 grams of Diamond Kosher salt and 4 grams of active dry yeast.  After mixing those into the flour, and stretching the dough several times over the first 2 hours, I let the dough rest.  By 8:00  or 9:00 PM, the bulk fermentation is essentially complete.  At that point I can take the dough out of the plastic tub, cut in in half, and form two loaves.  These are placed in rattan cane bannetons, placed in plastic bags, and put in the refrigerator overnight to finish their development.  The next morning the breads get baked at 475º F. in Dutch ovens — covered for the first 30 minutes, then uncovered for another 15-20 minutes to finish browning.  Finally, they rest on a wire rack for two hours, and then we slice and eat them.

Pizza

After a relatively cool Spring, we tend to leap at the chance to make pizza when we have a warm day.  I build the wood fire, Barbara makes the dough and prepares the toppings, and she rolls out the dough to a thin crust, placing each one on a wooden pizza peel, sprinkled with a handful of coarse polenta grains to help the pizza slide smoothly into the oven.  Finally, I carry each peel out to the oven in the driveway — one at a time — and fire it, turning the pizza regularly for the 2-3 minutes it takes to bake each one.

This time we did three different pizzas:

  • orange slices, black oil-cured olives, tomato sauce and Mozzarella (two of these)
  • zucchini strips and sliced onions, tomato sauce and Mozzarella
  • and my newest formulation — smashed fingerling potatoes, roasted red onion slices, fresh thyme, Pecorino and Mozzarella cheeses

While the oven was still quite hot, I fire-roasted two fresh tomatoes to use in a vegetable dish later this week.  The wine was an Aglianico from Campania.

Paella

Another favorite is Paella.  I had recently bought 1000 Spanish Recipes, a cookbook by Penelope Casas, and I wanted to use some of the chorizo from my last order from La Tienda.  In the book I found an obscure but intriguing recipe, Paella Monocal Santa Clara, Monastic Paella with Chorizo and Olives.  I modified that recipe a little by dropping out the Serrano ham and parsley, but adding 1/2 leek (diced), a little broccoli (finely chopped), some chopped leftover zucchini strips, Asian eggplant (small cubes), and white Spanish beans that I had cooked two days earlier.

(You might notice the small orange-colored smear on the recipe below.  That’s from the Pimenton-flavored olive oil in the chorizo.  It was on my hand as I checked the recipe during the cooking.)

A glass of the Aglianico completed the meal.

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Lunchtime Surprises

These days I love lunchtime.  It’s an ideal time to resurrect leftovers or create new dishes with many of my favorite foods.  I am also finding that if I have one glass of wine at lunch   and a second glass at dinner, I don’t need a nap after lunch, nor do I snooze at the table after dinner.  Today was another of those good days.

We have some Prosciutto I got delivered from Formaggio Kitchen in Cambridge recently.  It is sliced a little too thick for my taste as an antipasto, but it works well when cut into thin slivers in cooking (as I did last night in a side dish of sautéed spinach with garlic).  A quick search in my Italian cookbooks produced this recipe for a Wild Mushroom Frittata with Prosciutto, so that was my choice for lunch dish (using just 5 eggs).

At the same time, I had been thinking about making a traditional Mediterranean tuna salad with the Tuna Conserva made a few days earlier.  To that end, I had taken some older dried white beans (Controne) and cooked them yesterday.  That was a task in itself.  Normally, dried beans which have been soaked overnight will get cooked the next day in 60-90 minutes.  These were old enough to need more than 3 hours, but they were safely in the refrigerator, ready to use this morning.  I had a small piece of Tuna Conserva (about 1/3 lb.), so it was easy to assemble the salad, once I chose the ingredients and cut everything into 1/2″ dice.

Surprise #1:  The Tuna Salad was superb, the highlight of the meal, and I needed a second helping to fully appreciate it.

Surprise #2: The wine I selected, a 1990 Dorigo Refosco from Friuli, was astonishingly good.   It was rich, full-bodied, and full of fruit.  Somehow I had the expectation that it would be past its prime and not particularly interesting.  Once again, the only way to know about a wine is to drink it.  Here is a 30-year old wine from Friuli worthy of note, and a very fine accompaniment to both dishes on my lunch plate.

 

 

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Walks, and Another Italian Lunch

This was another good week, featuring walks on a country road and cooking as we like.  The walk is usually 1.0-1.5 miles down the road from our house and back up again.  We stop for a short rest by the pond at the bottom of the hill.  Here are two watercolor renditions and one “Stay Home” photo along the way.

Waterlogue 1.4.3 (120)
Preset Style = Vibrant
Lightness = Auto-Exposure
Size = Large
Border = No Border

Waterlogue 1.4.3 (120)
Preset Style = Vibrant
Lightness = Auto-Exposure
Size = Large
Border = No Border

Today, however, was mostly about playing in the kitchen.  It was an opportunity to put together more favorite things for lunch.

One dish was Braised Celery with Pancetta, Onions, and Tomatoes, per Marcella Hazan.  I actually made it last night, and then saved it for today.  Motivation for this dish was an overabundance of celery, including some mediocre packaged celery hearts I needed to get rid of.  Marcella’s recipe was the perfect solution, especially when I decided to add just one more item to the dish, for saltiness and color: a few Kalamata olives.:

The rest of the lunch was a simple pasta dish, also designed to use what we had available.  This was a whole wheat orzo dish with a sauce of chopped onion, garlic, a piece of anchovy, chopped zucchini, and one peeled and diced plum tomato.  A little diced Israeli sheep milk feta cheese and some dried Greek oregano completed the flavors.

My favorite Calabrian wine, Savuto by Odoardi, imported by Jan D’Amore, went very well.

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Creations: Mine for a Lunch, Barbara’s for a Dinner

Mine: Lunch

One of the best parts of this “At Home” business is that I always have time and space to create what I want for lunch.  Last Thursday was another in the Bruschetta family of repasts, this time using the few remaining slices of the Overnight Whole Wheat bread I made last week.

As usual, leftovers played a major role in the affair.  A few days earlier I had made a true Provençal version of Ratatouille.  The recipe came from one of my older and rarely-used cookbooks, A Taste of Provence, by Leslie Forbes, 1987.  It was different than most versions of the dish, in that each vegetable is sautéed separately and then reserved until the final assembly.  It is a masterful touch; the dish was excellent, although next time I will cut the eggplant pieces somewhat smaller and cook them slightly longer.

Other leftovers included white bean purée and some seeded, chopped, and sautéed Padron peppers, from earlier in the week.  For the wine, I wanted something sprightly, and I found it nicely in a bottle of Ameztoi Txakolina, from the Basque region of Spain.

Hers: Dinner

There are a number of things Barbara does better than I do, and high on the list is making Polenta properly.  She uses a great deal more water in the recipe, and she has the patience to stir it for 45 minutes or more.  She also can be very creative in the saucing process.  For this dinner she made a wild mushroom sauce, using fresh Shiitake mushrooms, reconstituted dried mushrooms — Chinese Shiitakes, Hungarian Chanterelles, Italian Porcini — and the reserved liquids from their soaking.  To the chopped mushrooms she added finely chopped leftover Ratatouille (her version, without peppers).  The resulting dish was visually stunning and gastronomically appealing.

Special dish calls for a special wine.  I chose a Coutandin Ramìe, an unusual wine from northern Piemonte, imported by Jan D’Amore.  I had just purchased a bottle from Eataly Vino.  It was a 2016.  When I went to my cellar to get it, I saw a 2013 bottle on the rack, so I took that one for our dinner.  It was spectacularly good, another tribute to a group of obscure, indigenous grapes of Italy — and the hands of a skilled winemaker!

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Take Walks, and Eat Leftovers

Sanity these days requires exercise during these crazy, buttoned-up times.  Fortunately, walking along the country road on which we live is accessible, scenic and safe.  Barbara and I often go together during the walk, covering a mile or a little more on a nice day.  As we go downhill toward a small pond, we can often look across a neighbor’s field and see the willow trees as they become green this time of year.  It’s very peaceful.

We do get hungry after walking.  Leftovers are usually readily available, and they can be configured quickly into a good lunch.  On this day I made a simple dish of tuna conserva, cannellini beans cooked the day before, a little chopped leftover tomato, and chopped and pitted Gaeta olives.  What really makes a composed salad like this come together in an authentic Mediterranean way is the quality ingredients for dressing: premium Greek olive oil from Kalamata olives, a splash of good Portuguese red wine vinegar, a few pinches of sea salt from Ibiza, and a few cubes of Israeli Feta cheese from Trader Joe’s.

Two white wines were open and cold, so I had some of each: a Polvanera Minutolo from Puglia (imported by Jan D’Amore) and an Argyros Estate Bottled Assyrtiko from Santorini.  Having visited each of these wineries in previous years, I was delighted to have them at my table again.

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