Recently, we’ve been eating fish and seafood more often. One of my mainstays is a tuna salad lunch, made with Portuguese tinned ventresca tuna from Luças.
The salad is made with these delicious tuna fillets, jazzed up with whatever is handy, cut in small dice:
Spanish Piparras peppers
Portuguese olive oil and red wine vinegar
The wine was amazing. It’s a Spanish red wine from Ribeira Sacra region, Abadia Da Cova, made with Caiño, a grape varietal I did not know of previously. Fortunately, I was able to track some of it down at Winestone, a superb boutique wine shop in the Chestnut Hill area of Brookline.
That night, I decided to inaugurate my new Imperia pasta machine (with motorized rollers), to make fresh fettuccine with broccoli and shrimp, Alfredo style.
Sourdough is always handy. One or two slices can be breakfast or lunch, a snack or a dinner component. This post features sourdough toast with “wild mushrooms” (Chanterelles), followed by a polenta dish that evening.
The polenta was made into crostini, from leftovers the night before. Cut into bite-sized pieces, it was flavored with Pecorino, tapenade, and herbs, drizzled with olive oil, and crisped under the broiler. Paired with a California red wine, Scylla, from Birichino, it was a delicious appetizer — with flavors as explosive as the bouquet of flowers given to us from a friend’s garden.
Every once in awhile, I pull out of the bookshelves one of my older cookbooks, and I find an appropriate dish for the occasion. Today, I was looking for a way to use half of a large heirloom tomato for my lunch, and I found a marvelous little recipe in The Antipasto Table, by Michele Scicolone, published in 1991. Believe or not, salads have not changed much in 30 years.
The recipe is simple: thinly-sliced tomato, arugula (torn into bite-sized pieces), sliced red onion, olive oil, salt, and pepper, and some cheese. It’s written for ricotta salata, but also suggests feta cheese as an alternative. I used some Israeli feta (from Trader Joe’s), along with several cubes of Halloumi, which were dusted in rye flour and sautéed in olive oil. I also added a few splashes of Portuguese red wine vinegar for acid. The results were excellent, especially with the Cotes-du-Coast Rhône-style white wine for accompaniment.
I think I will return to the Antipasto Table often this summer.
Last night we had a Nettle Risotto with Goat Cheese and Scallions, and a garnish of Lemon Confit. It was so good, I may have to add a 3rd candidate to my list.
My first encounter with stinging nettles was in San Francisco, at Rose Pistola in North Beach, probably in 2003. It was a risotto made by the Chef Armando Maes, known best as “Tiny”. He is a mountain of a man and a creative, passionate, and versatile chef. He also had a version with fettucine and ricotta.
This was a marvelous restaurant founded in 1996 by Reed Hearon, and named after a longtime North Beach resident, originally from Liguria. The restaurant closed in 2017.
After this first experience with nettles, I was fascinated. They are essentially weeds, with painful stickers if you touch them. Shortly after I ate them, I was able to buy packages of nettles at the farmers’ market at the Ferry Terminal in San Francisco, and I then learned how to prepare and cook them myself. Back at home in Massachusetts, I was thrilled to find close friends nearby who harvested them for me from their own woods in the Spring.
Here is a very good description of the process for preparing nettles for culinary purposes. Nettle tea is also a valuable natural remedy for a number of ailments.
Now for my risotto; I found this recipe online from Il Buco:
I liked the recipe as written, but of course, I needed to add some of my own touches. First, I had been to Small Farm for my seedlings, and I also bought some terrific scallions, which I thought would go well in the dish.
Next, I saved the water used to cool the nettles after blanching them, and I used it instead of another broth to make the risotto.
There are several fine rices for risotto. My preference for this dish was Vialone Nano, rather than the two listed in the recipe.
The final touch was the addition of Lemon Confit, which delivers a jolt of acid and salt as a final touch. Here is the original recipe from Tom Colicchio from his cookbook, Think Like A Chef.
In these situations, nettles are often described as similar to spinach and Swiss Chard. Yes, they are in some ways, but I find them to be more flavorful and intense, in a satisfying way. If nettles are new to you, give them a try. They are available only in the Springtime, I think, so the season is almost over now. There’s always next year.
Wine? Ah, yes, of course. I had an open bottle in the refrigerator, a California-grown, Rhône-style white wine from Sans Liege, and it went very well with the dish.
But I was curious about other choices, so I opened a bottle of 2016 Clivi Brazan, a Friulano, made by my late friend, Ferdinado Zanusso, and I enjoyed that one, too. Salut!
There was a little bit left over, but not enough for a meal for one person, so I decided to make Arancini, that signature Sicilian dish — effectively fried rice balls.
One of the advantages of this particular risotto is that it uses mozzarella, in addition to the traditional Parmesan. That makes it ideal for Arancini, because the cheese helps the rice balls to hold together well and not to fall apart. Served with a little Lucini tomato sauce from a jar, and accompanied by a glass of Odoardi’s Terra Damia Calabrian red wine, it was a perfect match.
Last month I wrote about an artisan pasta shop in Lexington, MA: La Dolda. Last week I used my second bag of pasta from them — Rigatoni. It worked very well in this dish.
We ate less than half of the complete dish the first evening. I was able to revivify it for additional meals, simply by adding breadcrumbs, grated cheese, a little cream, and olive oil — then cooking under a hot broiler until crispy on the edges.
Lunches these days are usually relaxed and very gratifying. As I’ve written in the past, Lucas Ventresca Tuna Fish from Portugalia is one of my favorites, usually in a salad, replete with vegetables in various forms. Here is a concise summary of the most recent version.
The wine, 7 Fuentes, is Spanish — from the Canary Islands. The producer is Suertes del Marqués. The grapes are Listan Negro, with a smokiness that goes well with the pickled ingredients in the salad.
It’s intriguing that I am inspired to cook specific dishes by a wide variety of stimuli. One recent example is a dinner featuring Indian Dals — lentils of various kinds. The impetus came from opening the main cabinet in our kitchen, which we do multiple times a day. Sitting in a prominent place, at eye level, is a jar of Toor Dal, also known as Split Pigeon Peas.
I had used them in a dish perhaps two years ago, but not since. Now they were staring me in the face with regularity. (Fortunately, these have very long shelf lives in their dry form.)
A quick examination of online recipes indicated that these were best when combined with another lentil. Moong Dal. As luck would have it, those were sitting on another shelf — in my wine cellar.
With some adaptations to eliminate certain herbs and spices which my wife wouldn’t like in the original recipe, I was able to put together a nutritious supper fairly easily, adding green beans for color and variety at the same time.
There was one more example of what can be done with Sable fish. This time it was pan roasted with a touch of soy sauce, and combined with wild mushrooms, given a similar treatment and cooked to a deep, dark color. The umami was more similar to lamb shanks than it was to any fish I’ve ever eaten.
In that same “meaty” flavor range, I paired it with a 2014 Callaghan Vineyards Arizona Mourvedre, and it was perfect. The dark color and dusky tannins met happily with the mushrooms and oily fish.
One of the delicious ironies of this wine choice is that my very first bottle of Arizona wine — 10 years before my son started making wines in Arizona — was a 2002 Callaghan Mourvedre. I still have the bottle. It was an “Aha!” moment, when I realized that some very good wines can be found in many locations I did not know about.
No episode of new blog posts takes place here without some reference to the latest pasta dishes. Here are three recent ones I wanted to share.
Spaghetti with Broccoli Rabe
Barbara won’t eat bitter greens, so I make this just for me. Preparation is straightforward:
trim Broccoli Rabe, discarding thickest part of the stems and bad leaves
blanch the Rabe in boiling, salted water for just 2-3 minutes, at most
heat 3 Tbs. olive oil in a pan. dry and then sauté the greens with some chopped garlic and cooked chickpeas
cook the spaghetti to al dente
add spaghetti to the pan with the greens, add freshly grated Pecorino, mix well, and serve with more olive oil and a glass of white wine from Campania — in this case, Aliseo from Reale in Tramonti, on the Amalfi Coast. The grapes are Falanghina, Pepella, and Biancolella
La Dolda Artisan Pasta
We recently discovered a small but elegant shop in Lexington, MA. The owner is Italian, and he makes excellent artisanal pasta, both fresh and dried. We bought some to take home, and the first one we tried was the Spinach Radiatore, which I made with a simple sauce of zucchini and garlic, finished with Calabrian Pecorino. It was very good, and was nicely matched with a 2018 La Staffa Verdicchio from the Marche.
Whole Wheat Orzo Pasta Salad
Last week I did my Wine 101 Seminar for my alma mater, and it was delivered online successfully. Two of my friends joined me at home for the event that evening, so I made a pasta salad that we could enjoy while tasting. There was no recipe, but I chose to (1) grill onions, zucchini, and eggplant, (2) chop them all up, (3) add them to the cooked pasta, (4) fillet a few peeled plum tomatoes, and (5) mix them all together, along with cubes of Feta cheese for those who wanted it. Olive oil, salt, and pepper completed the dish. The dish paired well with both white and red wines.