Sautéed Spinach and Tomatoes – Recipe from Burgundy

It’s a Monday night and it’s my turn to cook dinner. One of the deciding factors determining our meals is the status of ingredients. Tonight’s near-crisis was a dish on the kitchen counter with 5 small fresh tomatoes which were fully ripe and nearing their end-of-life. As usual, I began the search for the meal by taking the key ingredient and exploring the options.

I’m very comfortable in the digital world and use my computer to canvas recipes in my Dropbox folder (with about 7,000 recipes), as well as on the internet. Tonight, however, I started with my analog resources (a few hundred cookbooks). One book caught my eye: Pierre Franey’s Cooking in France. As I perused the pages (which I had not read in a few years), I quickly located one from Burgundy, Sautéed Spinach with Tomatoes that interested me. It was short, clear and concise, in Franey’s inimitable style. and I was thrilled to see what I could do with a full bag of spinach purchased two days ago, in addition to using the tomatoes.

Now I needed some protein, and my wife had just bought a bag of Lundberg Organic Long Grain Brown Basmati at the market. Here’s where the leftovers kick in. I sliced the remaining half of yesterday’s shallot to add to the rice. The other home run in the leftover department was 2/3 cup of mushroom potato broth, recently used to braise fingerling potatoes. The 1/2 cup of rice was cooked with the broth, topped off to make 1 cup of liquid, plus 2 Tbs of unsalted butter. That required 45 minutes of simmering and 10-15 minutes of resting to finish the grain.

It took less than 15 minutes to cook the spinach and tomatoes. I also sliced some of the focaccia I made yesterday to accompany the vegetables.

Spinach and tomatoes atop the brown Basmati rice, alongside focaccia

La Piece de Resistance, as we say in Burgundy, was a glass of Italian wine from Friuli at the Slovenian border. Made from the not-well-known Schioppettino grape, it was a gift a few days ago from a good friend of ours who is the importer and distributor for I Clivi wines in our state.

The meal was a big hit. It also checked all the boxes: used must-cook ingredients, leftovers, on the table in less than an hour, healthy, easy cleanup, and delicious. Bon appetit!

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It is Nearly Impossible…

 It is nearly impossible to make a bad meal with grilled octopus and potatoes. Today’s case in point was an experiment that came out great. The primary ingredients were little baby (“one bite”) potatoes and one and a half grilled octopus legs. They were accompanied by one plum tomato, a sautéed shallot, a few capers, watercress, olive oil, salt and pepper, Meyer lemon segments, and smoked pimenton.

Recipe

1. Simmer the tiny potatoes in a broth of water, a few desiccated mushrooms, shallot and five slices of leek.

2. When the potatoes are tender, crush them in a frying pan and sauté with olive oil, flaky sea salt and pepper, and cook until they are crispy on the outside edges — about 20 minutes.

3. Cut up the tomato, and sauté another shallot. Mix them together with the capers in a large bowl.

4. Grill the octopus. Cut into bite sized pieces and serve topped with the watercress for color and flavor.

Wine? Of course! A Portuguese red wine made from Baga grapes — Filipa Pato Dinamica was a perfect match.

I wish you all a healthy, happy, tasty New Year!

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Torchietti Lunchtime Pasta

One of my favorite packaged pastas is this one (Torchietti) from Trader Joe’s. Sadly, this product is no longer available from them (or anyone else apparently). We have had 1/2 box leftover for about a year. Today I decided to finish it with a special lunchtime dish.

I enjoy making up pasta dishes with a variety of components from around the Mediterranean. While the Torchietti (imported from Italy) was simmering in the pot, I poured 3 Tbs. of Cretan ( Greek) olive oil in my favorite sauteuse. I filleted an Italian salt-packed anchovy and let it dissolve slowly on very low heat. The next step was to add a single skinless, seeded plum tomato along with roasted red pepper slices. By this time the pasta was cooked, so I added it to the pan, along with a little pasta water. For flavor and sharp color contrast, I pitted about 30 Azietone Preta black olives from Portugal and added them to the dish. Back to Italy for a handful of grated Pecorino cheese, and a quick stop in Spain for a few grains of fleur de sel from Ibiza and my dish was ready for the table.

A white wine from the Douro Valley in Portugal was my choice to accompany the pasta. The label read “Pomares”, a brand from Quinta Nova, a winery my son and I had visited 5 years ago. It was a selection suggested by Andre Ramos, the superb wine director at Portugalia in Fall River, MA. I was fascinated to learn that this wine is made from 3 grapes I had never encountered before: Viosinho, Gouveio and Rabigato! It is a medium bodied wine, full of flavor, and well matched to the olives and peppers in the dish.

The lunch was a complete success, and I have another serving in the refrigerator for lunch tomorrow.

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Opening an Old Burgundy

Old wines are full of surprises. Tonight’s version was a result of my desire to open a bottle of Aloxe-Corton 1978, a Burgundy of moderate importance, but always interesting. First of all, I had to get the cork out and that was not easy. It was very black from many years in the cellar. I was able to scrape off most of it but then, when I took the corkscrew to the cork, it immediately pushed through the bottom of the neck and into the bottle. Not a good start.

I sniffed it and, and much to my disappointment, it was very old smelling, so I put it aside after decanting it and straining out the cork. When I poured a glass from the decanter, the smell had improved a little, so I was encouraged. I let it sit for quite a while, perhaps 45 minutes or more, while I prepared my dinner — a salad of mixed greens and radicchio, plus olives, walnuts, daikon radish, beets, and pickled onions. By the time I had my next glass or sip of the Burgundy, things had resolved quite a bit and it tasted smooth and gentle, a little bit velvety with a nice maroon color to go with the radicchio. Soon there appeared a slight orange tint from the oxidation one would expect at this stage, but it was not too objectionable. The lesson from this experience is that you can expect an old wine to go through a number of significant changes from when it is first opened until you finally finish or discard it. This can take place over as much as three days or as little as 2 hours.

Earlier in the day I had made three loaves of Olive-Walnut Sourdough bread from 2 different recipes. With the salad, the bread, and D’Affinois cheese, I had a delightful accompaniment to go with the wine.

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Obscure Grapes

I’m a big fan of obscure grapes. You know, the kind that only grow in two small villages in Italy. This past weekend I came across a new variety for me — Gamba di Pernice, a red grape in the wine, Calosso, from Piemonte.

As a part-time academic, I cultivate my resources carefully. One of my favorites in this line of work is the book, Native Wine Grapes of Italy, by Ian D’Agata. A 620-page tome, it catalogs the incredible diversity of Italy’s native grapes, many of which grow nowhere else in the world. My friend and wine teacher, Jan D’Amore introduced me to this book, and I refer to it often. It told me that Gamba di Pernice means leg of partridge, because the red stalk of the vine is reminiscent of the the bird’s leg.

How did I discover this wine and grape? Two more friends in the wine trade: Dave Gansler, an importer and distributor in New England, and Patrick Dubsky, owner of Winestone, a superb wine retailer in Brookline, MA. Last Saturday, Dave offered a tasting of some of his delightful wines at Patrick’s shop.

Here is the description of the wine from Dave’s tasting:

Tonight was my night to make dinner. However, I had a Zoom call with colleagues in the early evening, so my wife agreed to make the dinner I planned, if I would do the prep work. Great arrangement!

The meal was Gnocchi with Pancetta, Zucchini, and Leeks, accompanied by Calosso wine.

Gnocchi | Pancetta | Red onion | Garlic | Leeks and oyster mushrooms | Tomato | Zucchini

I like this story because it illustrates almost everything about how I learn about wines and the stories about the people and the history that make it exciting.

Enjoy!

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Octopus with Chorizo and Potatoes

I think I’ve just found my new favorite octopus dish for dinner. It is octopus with chorizo and potatoes, a Spanish style dish that has all of the ingredients I needed on hand.   The recipe is very straightforward, and it took only about 20 minutes to put it all together, once I had prepared the octopus in my usual fashion.

An essential ingredient was Spanish chorizo. Mine was thinly cut vs. cubed, but that was close enough for government work.

What made the meal fabulous was a Sardinian red wine — Montessu, a blend of mostly Carignano grapes, blended with some Syrah, Merlot, Cabernet Sauvignon, and Cabernet Franc. This was a recent purchase from Winestone in Brookline, and it was a perfect match for this dish.

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Ridiculously Easy and Flavorful Pasta Dish

When I am cooking just for myself, I can load up on sharp and spicy ingredients that my wife won’t go near. Such was the case this weekend when I made Spaghettini Italiano with Garlic, Chili, Oregano & Parmesan. Here’s the recipe from the Internet:

The Calabrian chili peppers, fresh ground black pepper, and a pile of dried Italian oregano provided the desired zestiness. The spaghettini cooked quickly, and it was just a bit thinner than spaghetti, so it was perfect for this combination of ingredients.

A glass of Mastroberardino’s Irpinia Aglianico from Campania is all that I needed to complete the meal. Sometimes “simple” is both easy and best.

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Vive La France

Earlier this week I made a thoroughly French dinner, inspired by a bottle of wine from Winestone in Brookline, MA. It was a Cassis from Domaine du Bagnol, made from three grapes: Marsanne, Clairette, and Ugni Blanc.

Using salt cod recently purchased at Portugalia, I made a small dish of Brandade de Morue. The other delightful dish was Cauliflower with Mustard-Lemon Butter. The Brandade recipe and the Cassis wine both originated from the region near Marseille, and they transported me immediately to the Mediterranean.

The next night was Italian: a simple meal of Spaghettini with Tomatoes and fresh herbs. I’m sure you can duplicate it if you wish, just using the photo below as your guide.

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Lobster and Corn, Risotto or Pasta?

During the waning days of summer I often try to make some of my favorite dishes of this cheerful, bright season. Two beloved ingredients are frequently the stars of these meals: lobster and corn. Three years ago I created a risotto featuring them both.

Recently, I found good lobsters at very reasonable prices at Market Basket. I bought just one and decided to try a similar dish with cherry tomatoes and pasta instead of rice. What do you think?

This funky orange wine from Uruguay complemented the dish well — beyond my wildest dreams!

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My Best Rye Bread

I now have a new favorite recipe for a sourdough rye bread. It’s made with these proportions:

  • 40% white bread flour
  • 30% spelt flour
  • 15% rye flour
  • 15% whole wheat flour

200 grams Levain

75% hydration and 1/4 cup caraway seeds, crushed with mortar and pestle

It makes a wicked good grilled cheese sandwich, and it’s perfect for breakfast — sautéed in olive oil and topped with peanut or almond butter and a bunch of sesame seeds.

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