One of the best restaurants in Cisternino is Vatellapesca. The quirky name actually means “whatchamacallit” or “what’s-his-name” in Italian. I’ve eaten there three times already in my first week in town, and I’ve been delighted each time. The chef is Cristian Stasi, and he is very creative and engaging. His little restaurant is essentially just his own operation, but I can recommend all his dishes and the welcoming nature of his place for lunch or dinner.

The first night I had two dishes. The first and most exciting one was small octopus pieces with fava bean puree and red onions. It was as delicious as it was attractive. The second course was a risotto with mushrooms.

These were each accompanied by a glass of local wine: Fiano white wine for the pulpo, and a rosé with the risotto.  To conclude the meal, Cristian recommended his favorite Amaro, made from licorice. I found it to be delightful, even though I rarely like things with licorice in them.

Three nights later I went back for dinner and enjoyed another superb meal. The first course was unusual and amazing to me in how the elements were put together. It contained eggplant slices and radicchio, lightly grilled and topped with a little extra virgin olive oil, alongside a slab of local caciocavallo. The cheese was also grilled and served pleasantly warm, next to the verdure. The second course was again risotto, made with a little shrimp and a rose-colored sauce featuring beets and orange zest.

My third visit provided a perfect example of cooking and presenting a whole fish — Branzino, a sea bass — one of my favorites. Here is the dramatic presentation, alongside a simple medley of roasted verdure.