Caponata Smackdown

One of the Italian dishes I adore is Caponata, a Sicilian eggplant treat with strong overtones of the island’s Arabic influences.  The current population of Italy is 60,254,297 people, so there must be at least 60 million recipes for Caponata.  Virtually all of them have these elements in common:

  • eggplant
  • onions
  • tomatoes
  • wine vinegar
  • sugar

After that, the alternatives are endless.  Over the years I have had many variations of this dish, but there have always been two which were my favorites.  One is from The Meatless Cookbook, by Franco and Margaret Romagnoli; the other is Mario Batali’s from his book, Molto Italiano.  Today I decided it was time to do a side-by-side comparison — sort of a Caponata Smackdown in today’s food vernacular —  and I am delighted to present some of the early findings to you, my loyal readers.

two dishes and books-3

The one by the Romagnolis goes back to the mid-1970s, and it was my first encounter with this delicious way to prepare eggplant.  The distinctive features are, in fact, green — namely the crunch of cooked celery, the saltiness of good capers, and the bite of cracked green olives.  The recipe is simple and relatively quick to make:

Caponata - Romagnolis Romagnolis in pan Caponata Romagnoli's

Mario’s version is much more Moorish in tone, redolent with currants, pine nuts, cinnamon, unsweetened cacao powder, fresh thyme, and hot pepper flakes.  The colors tend more to dark brown and black, and mine was able to feature Italian pine nuts from my recent visit to BuonItalia in New York.

Caponata - Batali Batali in pan Caponata Batali with Italian Pine Nuts Caponata Molto Italiano

Since this was an early afternoon project, I continued the field test by making the last of my grilled radicchio and roasted red and yellow peppers panini — with side orders of each caponata.  They were both very good.

pan-grilled panino with 2 caponate

For the wine, during food preparation and consumption, I seriously considered several options from Sicily, but ultimately decided on a Li Veli Susumaniello from Puglia.

Susumaniello

So….is there a conclusion to all of this?  Americans always like hard ratings and numbers, but my answer is ….. “it depends.”  As with wine, I would make my selection depending on the dishes being served with the Caponata.  Or the wine I wanted.  Absent any other factors, I prefer the Romagnolis’ dish.  But the spicy, exotic flavors of Batali’s version would jazz up a number of meals and would be more appropriate with them.

Furthermore, my experience is that the flavors mellow and deepen over 2-4 days (if I don’t eat it all before then), so I would reserve final judgments until then.

Buon appetito.

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New Year Eclectic

Hope you had a good New Year’s celebration.  For us, it is one of the most understated holidays of all, so we chose to have our grandsons (ages 7 and 9) stay overnight; that way both we and the young people could go to sleep early.

From a food standpoint it was very successful.  Barbara — being the superb executive chef she is — was able to supervise each of the boys with their unique skills to produce spinach and phyllo dough packages worthy of a good Greek caterer, plus an organic butternut squash with walnuts in a puréed soup,  for last night’s dinner.  This morning, the boys were up at 6:15 and the chef was ready at 6:45, so by 8:30 they had made banana pancakes.  Fortunately, I had my smoothie and espresso, so my participation was limited to washing the dishes.  That is, until lunchtime.

I have been thinking of making borsch (or borscht), an Eastern European root vegetable soup featuring beets (which we have in delicious abundance from the last box of vegetables from Elena and Karl at Crooked Row Fields in Concord, MA).  In our Ashkenazi Jewish culinary traditions, our grandmothers from the shtetls in the Ukraine made borscht with lots of beets, a little carrot and onion — all grated by hand, and chicken or beef stock, and served with a scoop (they never heard of “dollops”) of sour cream.  I’ve made it that way before but wanted to try a more country-style Russian version (without the beef or bones in the broth), so I took a shot at this one. I shredded beets and carrots, sliced a Yukon potato and chopped an onion, slivered some cabbage, and added sliced garlic.  Boiled all in stages in salted water.

We tried it puréed and in chunk style.  They both needed more salt, and the verdict was “OK, not great”.

Meanwhile, for the rest of my lunch, I went to the refrigerator for leftovers, with good success:

  • oven-roasted potatoes to make hash browns (with secret ingredients like Pimenton and Desert Dust, and late addition of chopped garlic)
  • seitan cutlets with vegan onion sauce to reheat
  • 1/4 head of cabbage to be pan-roasted
  • a couple of slices of Halloumi cheese, fried (from Cyprus)
  • the remainder of a bottle of 2008 Polvanera Aglianico from Puglia (and Jan D’Amore)

vegetables elements potatoes and cabbage borsch in pot puréed borsch ready to become hash browns garlic to add later Atalanta Halloumi Halloumi, cabbage and seitan Polvanera 2008 Aglianico Processed with VSCOcam with c2 preset

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Morellino di Scansano for Lunch

Last night, I had a hankering for a meaty-style meal (without meat itself, which no longer appeals), so I made seitan cutlets, pan-fried, and finished with a self-styled vegan onion gravy.  We agreed it turned out quite good, somewhat reminiscent in texture and flavor of Veal Marsala.  We were running low on vegetables, so I made what we had: carrots, Jerusalem artichokes, and chickpeas (spiced with coriander, cumin and marjoram) braised in olive oil and water, plus several new potatoes oven-roasted with olive oil, Sicilian rosemary, and sea salt.  I list all of that so that I can tell you about the wine: a 2004 Gini Morellino di Scansano — smooth, charming, and lovely, from the Maremma section of Tuscany.  I must have purchased it some time ago, based on the vintage (and the price: $15).  Made from Sangiovese grapes, it recalls the color and flavor Rainier cherries.  Fortunately, I had plenty of wine left over for lunch today, which is the subject of this post.

The food was a reprise of recent mid-day successes, and it allowed me to use up the last cooked beet, more micro greens, and leftover roasted vegetables.  First, I made a salad with the beet (cut into wedges); greens and endive from last night’s salad fixings; wild arugula leaves; leftover braised carrots, chickpeas and Jerusalem artichokes; chopped organic walnuts; a bit of Olympiana Greek feta cheese; micro watercress and winter purslane; red wine vinegar; and Barbara’s vinaigrette.

Next, was a toasted sandwich — two thin slices of whole grain levain, pan-toasted crisply and filled with roasted radicchio, yellow peppers, and a couple of slices of Pecorino al Tartufo.  All of which went swimmingly with the Morellino di Scansano.

beet-endive-walnuts-microgreens-feta-arugula salad

beet-endive-walnuts-microgreens-feta-arugula salad

radicchio-sweet peppers panino

radicchio-sweet peppers panino

2004 Morellino di Scansano

2004 Morellino di Scansano

red wine in the glass

red wine in the glass

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Simple Supper

Sometimes the simplest suppers are the best.  Yesterday we went across the border into NH, only a 30 minute drive — to visit a couple who run a local pasta-making business: Valicenti Organico Hand Made Pasta.  Dave gave us a full tour of the operation, and Michelle said hello as she came in and out with various delivery tasks.  I had bought their products often at the farmers market during the summer and fall, but I wanted to get the full range of their offering and wanted to see the production in person.

We came home with a bunch of fresh pastas, eight packages of ravioli and three extruded shapes.  Tonight was Barbara’s turn at dinner, and she chose the Lemon Basil Linguine as the main dish, dressed with a simple sauce of Lucini Olive Oil, lemon juice, grated lemon rind, and cut up black Turkish olives.  A little of the reserved water from cooking the pasta bolstered the sauce, and it was terrific.

She also made a salad with lettuce, endive, and some micro greens, dressed in a mustardy vinaigrette.  And I opened a bottle of Channing Daughters Long Island Pinot Grigio, another find from Social Wines and  a perfect match for the occasion.  Simplicity at its finest!

Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

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Lunch Favorites

I had time, motivation and ingredients for a good lunch today.

Time: done with the trip to the dump this morning, including dropping off the very old, used lawn mower.

Motivation: 1. hungry  2. bread was a week old  3. cooked beets needed to be used

Ingredients: Lots of favorites, including whole wheat levain, multiple packages/varieties of micro greens from NYC Greenmarket, the best Halloumi cheese, leftover roasted peppers and radicchio, and a bottle of red wine opened two days ago.

Result: A large bowl of salad, with cubed beets, micro greens, Halloumi cheese, chopped black Turkish olives, and diced Vidalia onion, plus a sandwich of juicy roasted peppers and radicchio with a little feta cheese on pan-sautéed slices of whole grain bread.  Accompanied by a few glasses of a Tuscan wine from a Grenache-Mourvedre blend.

Beet-Micro-greens Salad

Beet-Micro-greens Salad

Roasted Peppers and Radicchio Sandwich on Whole Grain Levain

Roasted Peppers and Radicchio Sandwich on Whole Grain Levain

Tuscan Red Wine - a full liter

Tuscan Red Wine – a full liter

Micro Shiso

Winter Purslane Rainbow Microgreens

salad tossed

salad tossed

Halloumi frying on side one

Halloumi frying on side one

Halloumi frying on side two

Halloumi frying on side two

Halloumi added to salad

Halloumi added to salad

juicy roasted peppers and radicchio

juicy roasted peppers and radicchio

luscious peppers

luscious peppers

sandwich filling

sandwich filling

Melba Levain

Melba Levain

marinating Turkish olives

marinating Turkish olives

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Whole Wheat Levains and Beet Salad with Micro-Greens

Another advantage of vacation time is that I can bake bread again.  While the hands-on time preparing the dough is fairly small, I do need at least a solid day and a half without commitments to attend the various stages of mixing and developing the dough, plus baking time.  I had time this past weekend to do it, and my bread starter (going for at least five years now) was in good shape when I revivified it after it spent three mostly dormant days in the refrigerator during my New York trip.

Each batch of dough makes two good sized loaves, and because I wanted to put currants in some of the bread, I made two batches.  One batch was my favorite whole wheat levain recipe (about 90% whole grain, freshly milled organic flour); the other — with the currants — had a little more King Arthur Bread Flour (~15%) and the rest whole grain.  Following the Ken Forkish method (described in earlier posts), all four loaves came out as pretty and tasty as I had hoped.

The day I was baking, my lunch consisted of some toasted Iggy’s onion ficelle with Barbara’s hummus, Turkish black olives, a beet and micro-greens salad, and a glass of Estate Argyros Assyrtiko wine.

lunch of ficelle, hummus, and beet-micro greens salad

lunch of ficelle, hummus, and beet-micro greens salad

Beet and Micro-Greens Salad

Beet and Micro-Greens Salad

whole wheat levain

whole wheat levain

Levain with currants inside

Levain with currants inside, slightly elongated vs. a boule

whole wheat levain with currants

whole wheat levain with currants

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Gnocchetti

One of my unique food finds in NY was a package of Gnocchetti Sardi, a pasta from Sardinia.  I found it at BuonItalia and purchased the one which included the spinach and tomato pasta doughs.

Processed with VSCOcam with c1 preset

I made up my own recipe, and it was excellent.

  • boil gnocchetti in salted water until al dente
  • dice carrot, onion and potato, and sauté them in olive oil in a large pan
  • in a separate pan, sauté chopped chanterelle, shiitake, and soaked dried porcini mushrooms; add crushed, dried Sicilian rosemary; add salt and pepper
  • when mushrooms are browned, add stock and boil off, then add white wine and reduce
  • chop and blanch a handful of kale leaves, about 3 minutes, depending on age, until just tender
  • combine sautéed vegetables, mushrooms, kale, and the gnocchetti in the sauté pan, add a handful of pitted, chopped Taggiasche olives, a little more olive oil, and sea salt (preferably from Ibiza), and cook two or three minutes until the flavors are well-blended.

Relish this beautiful and satisfying dish alone or with friends.  Buon appetito!

Gnocchetti with Vegetables My Way

Gnocchetti with Vegetables My Way

Sea salt we bought in Ibiza last month

Sea salt we bought in Ibiza last month

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NYC December 2014: Food, Wine, Friends, and Sport Jackets

Last week, as soon as classes were over and grading completed, I made one of my semi-annual New York visits.  I rented an apartment on Airbnb for three nights, connected with a few good friends, explored for food and wine, and arranged to go to my favorite clothing store to replenish sport jackets which were wearing out.

I won’t drag you through the play-by-play description of each day, but I will show or tell you a few of the highlights:

  • dinner with Dan at Blossom, a terrific vegan restaurant on Ninth Avenue
  • walking along the High Line to Dan’s apartment in the evening
  • a late lunch at Rainbow Falafel, where I had a delicious fried eggplant sandwich on pita
  • my successful visit with Patrick, my haberdasher for at least 15 years
  • a short visit with Jan, at his new, larger office space, catching up on our activities over the past six months
  • dinner at AlMar in Jan’s building in DUMBO section of Brooklyn
  • picking up Alice Feiring’s holiday six-pack of specially selected natural wines
  • oodles of wonderful micro-greens at the Wednesday Union Square Greenmarket
  • a productive hour browsing through BuonItalia for a variety of delicious foodstuffs
  • lunch at Remi with Jeremy
  • walking eight miles in those three days, as I pursued my passions

Some of the visuals are shown below:

salad at AlMar

salad at AlMar

antipasti at Becco

antipasti at Becco

olives at Becco

olives at Becco

Blossom black-eyed pea cake with potatoes and chipotle aioli

Blossom black-eyed pea cake with potatoes and chipotle aioli

Blossom mushroom "calamari"

Blossom mushroom “calamari”

AlMar Cavatelli Grano d'Arso with smoked mozzarella and green olives

AlMar Cavatelli Grano d’Arso with smoked mozzarella and green olives

walking the High Line in the evening

walking the High Line in the evening

High Line-01 High Line-59-2

Rainbow Falafel - great sandwiches, clean and healthy

Rainbow Falafel – great sandwiches, clean and healthy

Patrick is the best

Patrick is the best

lunch at Remi

lunch at Remi

Tagine

my entrée at Blossom, shared with Dan

Rigatoni with Porcini Cream

Dan’s entrée at Blossom, shared with me

Blossom Blossom 1 Rainbow Falafel. fried eggplant sandwich

at lunch in Remi

NYC food and wine cards

Feiring Line 6-Pack natural wines

Feiring Line 6-Pack natural wines

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Methi Dal

From Spain we move to India.  We have an Indian market in a nearby town, and they recently have upgraded the store —  cleaner design, better produce, nice selection.  One afternoon I stopped in to browse and was pleased to find a fresh bunch of Methi (Fenugreek Leaves).  I had used some once previously to add to our homemade chapati, but they were nowhere near as full and fresh as these.

A little research, stoked by my passion for legumes of all kinds, let me to make Methi Dal, using Red Lentils (Masoor Dal) and improvising with some of the vegetables in my refrigerator at the time.  The recipe I started (using Toor Dal) with is no longer online, but below is a pdf version I made when I found it.  And here is another simple version I found today, using red lentils.  My own recipe is posted below, along with a few photos.

Methi Dal Recipe | Indian Methi Recipes | Chef In You

Methi Dal recipe Methi Dal in Pot Methi Dal in bowl

Methi leaves

 

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Catching Up with Blogging…

There are times when my day job inhibits my blogging, since I have fewer occasions to cook and even less time to photograph, organize and write.  That’s my excuse for being offline over the past month.

I’ll begin with a simple supper in early December, a collaborative effort at that.  Barbara made an incredibly delicious and colorful salad, and I prepared a Tortilla Española from Penelope Casas’ excellent book, The Foods & Wines of Spain.  The book is over thirty years old, and I bought it used last year on Amazon.  It’s a real classic and chock full of great recipes.

cookbook Foods & Wines of Spain

I didn’t make note of all the things in Barbara’s salad, but here are some of the highlights:

  • red leaf lettuce
  • endive
  • watercress
  • fresh orange sections
  • fresh raspberries
  • feta cheese
  • vinaigrette made with a raspberry infusion

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The tortilla recipe is very straightforward, but it takes time, patience and superb ingredients (i.e. potatoes, olive oil, eggs, salt, onion).  The recipe is below, and if you look in the upper left of the salad picture, you can see a wedge of the finished product.

Tortilla 1 Tortilla 2

For the wine I selected a red wine from the northern part of Puglia, Alberto Longo’s 2009 le Cruste, 100% Nero di Troia.  Deep purple in color, rich and smooth in flavor, it completed the meal exactly as I had hoped.

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One other colorful item graced our table that night: it was a red, black, and white glass bowl of intricate design and grace, fashioned by one of the glassblowers at MIT.  I purchased it at the annual sale event and am happy to have it in the home.

MIT glass

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